Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Glancing roughly through the periods, I find that the dress most worn
in England by the peasant women in the eleventh century consisted of a
coarse woollen gown with long sleeves closely fitting to the wrists, a
white linen apron, and a linen kerchief covering the head as a wimple.
In the reign of Henry I. it is recorded that men wore simple tunics of
red lined with white, innocent of a girdle, and open from the waist at
the left side, the sleeves possessing long cuffs reaching almost to the
elbow. The mantle was often added, and beneath the tunic were chaussés
or drawers, and either boots or shoes, with crossed diagonal lacings.
Hats or hoods were of leather, felt, or cloth, and warm mitten-shaped
gloves of coarse make were adopted. In the time of Henry II. women, who
held faithfully to linen aprons, caps, and kerchiefs, wore long gowns
and plain bodices laced up the back, the sleeves put rather full at the
shoulders, and the petticoats pleated at the waist.
In the thirteenth century the bliaus, or smock, of canvas or fustian was
made in many varieties of coarse cloth, russet, and cordetum produced
for the use of the poor. The peasant women were converted towards some
ambition for the beautiful, and their costume became impressed with the
ornamental, consisting of a bodice cut low in the neck to show a pleated
chemisette of white linen, and attached to a fully gathered skirt,
fastening with buttons down the front. Their boots were high and had
buttons on the fronts, while the white linen apron and white linen cap or
kerchief still held their place.
In the days of King Edward II. the men adopted a long gown buttoning
from the neck to the waist, with loosely hanging sleeves, showing
closely-fitting under-sleeves, the hood being folded back or pendent, and
the shoes pointed.
The double dress was introduced in the fourteenth century, a dress
which is in the form which we now associate with the fishwife's dress,
the upper skirt being pinned back over a full petticoat, the bodice
of this being laced and the sleeves loose. Chaucer describes his poor
Ploughman as wearing a tabard--a garment unheard of before the fourteenth
century--a hat, scrip, and scarf; the Shipmanne was garbed "all in a gown
of falding to the knee." This material was a kind of frieze, and in this
day the coarse red woollen material still used by the Irish peasant women
for petticoats and jackets is the old falding.
In the fifteenth century the chemisette to some extent yielded place to
the bodice high at the neck and fastened at the back, finished by a small
linen kerchief tied in the front. A plain full woollen petticoat was in
vogue, and the sleeves were turned back with pleated cuffs, the option in
headgear being allowed between a close hood or kerchief and a plain hat
of straw.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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