Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical — John Shaqi
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
[Illustration: IN ANCIENT GREECE.]
The Greek female dress consisted of the pallium, a cloak-like garment
very long and ample, worn plain, or bearing a fringed border, and under
this was a chlamys, bearing close kinship in form to the Roman toga,
and fastened to the shoulder by a brooch. The Grecian women cut their
hair close to their heads, and the married were distinguished from the
unmarried by a parting in front, but no Grecian woman ever went without a
veil, covering the face. The head-dress and ribbons of matrons differed
from those of the virgins, and there was a change in the shape of the
tunic before and after marriage. Ribbons in the hair were preferred as
decorations by the modest women, while the courtesans covered their heads
with a mitre, and carried oval hand-mirrors, which distinguished them, as
it were significantly, from their more virtuous sisters, who made use of
fans of leaves or feathers.
The art of beauty, it seems, was studied with much interest. The use of
cosmetics was greatly favoured. White lead was employed to whiten the
skin, and vermilion to produce the rosy bloom of youth; and we have most
of us been impressed by the fact that Nero's wife discovered a pomade for
the preservation of her complexion--no doubt her urgent needs led to this
heroic effort! Much time and attention were bestowed on the hair, and the
use of false tresses was very general, slaves being employed to curl the
hair, while experts supervised the process. The structures were adorned
with pearls and other precious stones, crowns of gold and flowers,
ribbons and fillets, while the embroidered net, known as the caul, also
had a full share of patronage. The Roman women would paint their hair a
gorgeous yellow.
[Illustration: A ROMAN HEAD.]
Men and women alike wore the cothurnus, which reached to the knee, where
it was fastened, purple being the favourite colour for this. It could not
have been possible to obtain a great variety in a costume, and, save in
the decoration of the tunic, which was ornamented with spots or scrolls,
and in the arrangement of the girdle, of two varying widths, the one
placed above the other so that the folds of the gown could pouch between,
every one must have appeared very like his brother and his sister.
One of the divergences in the fashion of the tunic worn by the women and
that worn by the men was in the former always reaching to the feet and
covering the arms.
[Illustration: A GREEK HEAD.]
The actual shape of the garments varied but little, and between the
tunic and the stola there would have been some difficulty in seeing any
difference, but the stola was worn over the tunic, and it came as low
as the ankles, and was fastened round the body by a girdle, broad folds
being above the breast: the essential distinction between the two in
cut being that the stola always possessed an instita or flounce.
[Illustration: A ROMAN LADY.]
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