Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
In those days the Roman women made a rule of wearing a toga, which,
hanging from the neck or the head, fell over the shoulders and touched
the ground at the back. The toga was either white or yellow for persons
of rank, when the border was purple, but the lower orders had the toga
dyed, and in times of mourning chose it in black. Within doors the toga
was discarded altogether in favour of the simple tunic, which was worn
with or without the girdle, and made either of woollen material or cotton
or thin gauze. Towards the latter part of the Empire the tunic was
lengthened, and bore sleeves adorned with buttons according to Hellenic
fashion; indeed, the sleeve seemed then, as now, to indicate style, for
the earlier types reached only to the elbow, and gradually they extended
to the wrist, and finally to the ground.
When the stola became popular it was always white, bearing long sleeves
ornamented with a wide border, and over it fell a mantle with a hood
round the shoulders. White was the favourite colour for a long time,
and even in those days the Gauls inspired the fashions. They taught the
Britons to spin and weave and dye, and purple and scarlet herb dyes were
employed with considerable success, though the chief colouring matter
was woad. The Roman women allowed their taste in colour to run riot, and
purple, scarlet, green, yellow, hyacinth, and blue were all in favour, as
well as chequered materials.
The foot-gear at this period was of two kinds, either reaching to the
middle of the leg and covering the whole foot, or only protecting the
sole of the foot and being secured by leather thongs. Women's shoes were
but little less costly than those worn by the men, and were gay with
ornament of gold set with pearls and other precious stones.
[Illustration: A HAND-MIRROR.]
[Illustration: A HAND-MIRROR.]
Jewellery was a great feature; ear-rings, bracelets, armlets, torques and
necklaces, and rings of gold, silver, and baser metals, were often set
with precious stones, or engraved with the portrait of some dear friend
or the representation of some historical event. Such rings, being used
for sealing letters and documents, would usually be bequeathed by a Roman
on his death-bed to his nearest friend. Ear-rings were a very favourite
form of adornment, and three or four would dangle picturesquely from each
ear, but only women and boys wore them. The wearing of rings, however,
was general. Iron, copper, and ivory played their part in the making of
the bracelets, and in the long pins for the hair, which were decorated
with massive heads mostly significant, including such odd designs as a
fish bearing in its mouth two precious stones, and a hanging basket with
a greedy bird pecking at its floral contents. The serpent found his
way to favour as an armlet and again as a diadem. The Greeks, indeed,
were fond of adorning their garments with beasts and birds, which they
embroidered or wove in gold and silver and coloured threads.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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