The East Indian varieties are extremely variable in length, and also
in relation to the quantity of weak fibres; the properties common to
almost the whole being brown colour, and dirty and rough character
of the cotton. It is chiefly used in Rossendale, Bury and Oldham for
coarse counts.
In the medium trade the fibre is subjected to no fewer than nine
processes (each different, and sometimes duplicated or triplicated)
before it arrives at the form of even thread known as yarn. In the fine
trade two or three additional processes are added.
[Illustration: PLATE I.--PLAN OF SHED. _To face pp. 16 and 18._]
The spinning department, to describe it briefly, consists of:--
1. _Mixing_ the cotton in stacks to secure thorough blending of
various qualities, and elimination of the unevenness present in
different bales or parts of one bale. Then commence processes
for cleansing, viz.:--
2. _Opening_ or passing the matted pieces of the bales through
a series of armed beaters having the functions of both
separating the material into small flakes and removing the
heavier impurities contained in it, such as sand and seeds.
3. _Scutching._--In this process a wing beater, revolving at a
speed of 11/1500 revolutions per minute, removes the remainder
of the heavy dirt, delivering the material in the form of a lap
or roll of cotton. This process is repeated.
4. _Carding._--Here, by means of revolving cylinders covered
with fine wire teeth, and combing the cotton against
other cylinders or plates similarly covered, the light
impurities--leaf, dust, short and weak fibres--are extracted,
and the lap attenuated into a thin sliver, in which the fibres
are laid in such a position as to be easily drawn parallel at
the drawing process. These four kinds of cleaning machinery
remove impurities and other matter foreign to the nature of
cotton, to the extent of about 10 per cent., taking middling
American cotton.
5. _Combing._--The long fibres are here separated from the
short, thus enabling a portion of the cotton to be used for
spinning finer yarns than the bulk would spin. It is only in
the mills spinning yarns above, say 80’s, that this process is
found; in ordinary, the custom is to go direct from carding to
6. _Drawing._--A simple process repeated for yarn up to 30’s,
used three times up to 60’s, and four processes are used above
this. The machine has for its object the levelling of the
slivers, six of which are placed together and drawn six times
the original length. When this has been repeated once or twice,
the sliver becomes very even and silky in consequence of all
the fibres having had the curl taken out and been laid parallel
to each other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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