In a weaving mill there is no more important process than sizing,
and on its satisfactory management depends the quality and quantity
of work turned off, and probably the success of the concern. This is
exemplified by the anxiety of a manufacturer to get hold of those
recipes well known as obtaining good results. The sale of a shirting,
domestic, drill, or heavily sized cloth, absolutely depends on the
satisfactory sizing, whilst the cost of making it is regulated by the
production of the looms. This has been known in many instances to vary
2s. per loom per week, in the use of a good mixing and a bad one.
Cotton warp will not weave well without the previous application of
some strengthening substance. In the loom the tension on the threads
is great, and whilst distended--and therefore in the most favourable
condition for being chafed--the healds with alternate vertical motion,
and the reed with reciprocating horizontal motion, rub the threads
so severely as to fray them to pieces, unless sized. This point was
recognised and counteracted, even in the hand loom days, as mentioned
in Chapter I.
In sizing, the objects are to press into the thread a mixture of
suitable ingredients, so as to strengthen the yarn, smoothen it, and
lay the fibres which project from the surface of the thread, thus
increasing the strength, and at the same time reducing the amount of
fluff at weaving; also to give to the yarn and cloth the requisite
appearance of toughness, strength or body, known technically as the
“feel.” It is in the sizing that the “boardy,” “leathery,” “clothy”
feels or grip are produced.
Another very important object of this process is the introduction into
low classes of cloth of an additional weight of foreign substances.
We have not here to deal with the debated and debateable point of its
honesty or otherwise, but how the object may best be attained; so long
as heavily sized pieces will be bought, so long will they be made,
and no blame can, at all events, be attached to the manufacturer. He
profits not by the weight, unless unscrupulous, for the price obtained
for the piece of cloth is not based on the total weight, but on the
amount of cotton contained in it. Frequently the state of the market
allows a greater profit out of pure sized goods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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