Culinary Chemistry: The Scientific Principles of Cookery, with Concise Instructions for Preparing Good and Wholesome Pickles, Vinegar, Conserves, Fruit Jellies, Marmalades, and Various Other Alimentary Substances Employed in Domestic Economy, with Observations on the Chemical Constitution and Nutritive Qualities of Different Kinds of Food.Accum, Friedrich Christian
Science
Culinary Chemistry: The Scientific Principles of Cookery, with Concise Instructions for Preparing Good and Wholesome Pickles, Vinegar, Conserves, Fruit Jellies, Marmalades, and Various Other Alimentary Substances Employed in Domestic Economy, with Observations on the Chemical Constitution and Nutritive Qualities of Different Kinds of Food.
Accum, Friedrich Christian
Cooking; Food poisoning
There is a considerable difference in the qualities of muscular flesh,
according to the size of the animal, and also according to its activity.
The small mountain sheep, for example, which has to encounter fatigue
to procure its food, has flesh of a different quality and flavour from
the large and lazy creature, which feeds luxuriously and fattens
rapidly, in the rich pastures of the plain country. The beef of the
western islands also, is more esteemed, on account of the same
circumstance, than that of the fat and brawny oxen which we see in the
London market. It is for this reason, we have no doubt, that the flesh
of the horse, the rhinocerus, and elephant, is not used as food except
in cases when other food is not to be procured. In the circumstance of
activity altering the qualities of flesh, we may be allowed to instance
the superiority of venison to beef, in flavour and tenderness, and
easiness of digestion.
The age of animals is another circumstance which has great influence on
the qualities of their flesh. The flesh of young animals is composed of
less rigid fibres, and has fewer vessels which carry red blood running
through it, and besides, it has less of the peculiar flavour of its
particular species than the flesh of older animals. Gelatine is more
abundant in the young, and fibrin in the old; hence the former is more
bland and tender. Veal and lamb, for example, are more tender and
gelatinous than beef or mutton; sucking pigs, chickens, and ducklings,
are also much more delicate than the grown animals. The beef of an old
cow, however well fed, is quite tough and unpalatable, while that of a
very young heifer is much relished. Although, however, very young
animals be so much more tender, yet they are insipid and flabby.
In the case of pork, age is not required, as in other sorts of butcher
meat, to mellow the fibre. It is an aliment containing much
nourishment; but to some palates its flavour is disagreeable, though by
most people it is relished. It was much used by the ancient athletæ, as
half raw beef steaks are now by our men of the fancy.
Sucking pigs are killed when three weeks old; and for pork, pigs are
killed from six to twelve months old. It requires them to be older for
making brawn. The flesh of young venison is not so good as when four
years old or more; though that of the fawn is very tender and succulent.
But even in the fœtal state, the flesh of animals, if recently taken
from a healthy mother, may be used. In the London market the fœtus of
the cow is regularly sold to the pastry-cooks for the purpose of making
mock turtle soup, of which it often forms the principal portion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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