We have to come to Lydford to find a patron saint for Dartmoor. The
moor is scarce in saints, but here in the dedication of the church we
find a very suitable patron in the Celtic St. Petrock, who came to
Cornwall in the sixth century and founded churches at Padstow and
Bodmin. There are other dedications of his on the moor borders. The
present church is Perpendicular, but there are traces of a far
earlier, possibly Celtic, building. The epitaph to the watchmaker
Routleigh in the churchyard should be noticed. Lydford is very
beautifully situated, and its ravine, down which the Lyd tumbles
through steep wooded clefts, is a perpetual charm. There are two
cascades, but that of Kitt's Steps is not so fine as it was once,
owing to mining operations. Those who like to make comparisons may see
a resemblance between Lydford Gorge and the famous Devil's Bridge of
Wales, and they will probably have to admit that the Welsh scene is
the grander; but Lydford is very lovely for all that, and its stream
is a true child of the moorland. This ravine of the Lyd was once
infested by a gang of vicious savages known as the Gubbins. There have
been similar reversions to primitive barbarism even within the past
century, people inhabiting mud huts and living chiefly by robbing the
moormen of their cattle. It is probable that the Doones of Exmoor,
though glorified by Blackmore, were simply robbers of this rude type.
Lydford also has a story of a traveller whose horse once cleared the
gorge at a leap, the bridge having fallen; the rider, unconscious of
his peril, was thus borne to safety across the roaring torrent of the
chasm. But the summer visitor must not expect to find the Lyd a
roaring torrent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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