There are some fine tors near Lydford, though not the highest of the
moorland. Brent Tor is singularly picturesque, and is a notable
landmark by reason of the Early England church on its summit. The hill
was fortified in early times, traces of stone and earthwork remaining;
and there is a legend, as so often with high-standing churches, that
the devil resented the church being built on what he considered his
special domain, but was discomfited by the erection being placed under
the patronage of St. Michael. The rock itself is volcanic, so that the
Prince of Darkness had a reason for deeming it his private property.
The church is said to have been built as a thankoffering for
deliverance from the sea. Those who reach it have to do so by a steep
and stony path, which we may take, if we will, as a symbol; and it is
often difficult to stand in the graveyard because of the fierce winds
that beat upon it. In times of storm it might be easy to imagine that
St. Michael and the spirits of darkness were waging their ancient
conflict. Not many worshippers in England can boast that they attend a
church 1130 feet above sea level; but the church at Princetown is
higher still. Perhaps it is not surprising that a more accessible
church has been built at North Brent Tor, yet after coming here it
would seem like a lapse in manhood to attend the other.
As we get northward of Lydford we approach the region of Dartmoor's
greatest heights. At Bairdown, near Hare Tor, there is a finely-placed
monolith or menhir; but the view from Great Lynx Tor is more
impressive than any prehistoric remains can be, and includes both the
English and the Bristol Channels. Mist and rain may often obscure the
outlook, but there are clear times when the waters beyond Plymouth
Sound can be seen to the south, while to the north glimmers the Severn
Sea where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. The two highest tors lie beyond
Lynx--Yes Tor and High Willhayes; both of these, though High Willhayes
has a slight advantage, are well over 2000 feet.
The grand Tavy Cleave, one of the famous beauty spots of the moor, is
just south of Amicombe Hill. The Tavy, one of the many rivers that
spring from the morasses around Cranmere, here tumbles--in summer a
cooling stream, in winter an impetuous torrent--among scattered
boulders and crags at the foot of the bare hills. Very different is
this scene from Lydford Gorge, but far more typically moorland. There
is no woodland here, but the gaunt flanks of granite upheavals, and a
restless stream gushing through stark lichened rocks. Grim summits cap
the ravine; below are bogs that in wet seasons may be formidable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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