At Teign Head (not quite the head of the river) is one of the
moorland's clapper bridges; but Leigh Bridge, where the two Teigns
meet, though of the common single-arch type, is more charming because
its surroundings are wooded. The two rivers unite before reaching
Chagford, and beyond that modernized and popular little resort the
Teign passes out of the confines of the moor altogether. But at Fingle
Bridge, one of the most famous Devon beauty-spots, something of
moorland wildness still remains. Almost the whole course of the Teign
is of remarkable beauty. It here passes the fine trees of Whiddon Park
till it comes to a ravine every yard of which seems to be prehistoric
dust. There are earthworks and camps on both sides; while not far off
is the great dolmen or cromlech of Drewsteignton, near the small
Bradmere pool.
Ancient camps are not common on the actual moorland, but we find them
here at the fringe: those Bronze Age moormen appear to have been
peaceable among themselves, and only to have raised entrenchments
against external enemies. Possibly this lovely valley of the Teign saw
a desperate struggle between tribes of an early and a newer
civilization, one of the primitive race-strifes that shaped our
people. Now it is a haunt of the country-lover and the tourist, many
of whom deplore that the banks and hollows have been denuded of their
rarer ferns by the depredations of thoughtless visitors. But nothing
has killed the charm of the tumbling torrent, the stained massy
boulders, the pools and shallows. It is little wonder that Chagford
has become a popular holiday place; yet its miry condition in winter
was best expressed by the pithy comment of its sarcastic
neighbours--"Chaggy-vord--Good Lord!" The "Three Crowns", of which
Kingsley spoke as a "beautiful old mullioned and gabled Perpendicular
inn", was once a manor house.
From Chagford we reach the open moorland by climbing Tincombe
(Teigncombe) Hill, and we must follow the South Teign if we wish to
examine the Fernworthy circle or the Grey Wethers. But we shall
probably be more attracted by what was once a genuine moor town, as
its name implies. Moreton Hampstead, no longer properly on the moor,
though it once was, is the starting-place of the single true road that
leads across Dartmoor, passing Two Bridges on its way to Buckland,
Tavistock, and Plymouth. The ancient central trackway, which is far
older, being connected with the Fosseway, also ran from Moreton.
Though linked to great roads from the shires, there is nothing to show
that the Romans ever used this track, or that they ever entered
Dartmoor at all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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