Perhaps Moreton is an even better centre for visiting the moor
than Chagford, and it is quite as attractive in itself, with its
interesting but despoiled church, and its fine arcaded almshouses,
dating from 1637. The inhabitants, however, deplore the loss of their
old "dancing-tree", an elm growing from the mutilated base of a
granite cross. This tree was supposed to be over 300 years old, and it
succumbed a few years since to age and many infirmities. Balls and
concerts were given on a platform built on the massive branches. The
tree has received literary honour in Blackmore's _Christowell_. It is
from Moreton that we can best reach Grimspound, with its twenty-four
hut-circles. The pound encloses about four acres, surrounded by a
double wall of granite blocks. Scattered in the neighbourhood are
other hut-circles, barrows, and stone alignments.
Bowerman's Nose (Celtic _veor-maen_, or great stone) is nearer to
Manaton; it is a natural freak of weathered granite, 40 feet in
height, standing at an elevation of about 1300 feet above sea level.
Many foolish conjectures have been magnified into supposed fact by
those who have taken this and other Dartmoor features to be the work
of man. Manaton itself, with its own tor rising behind the church, is
a beautiful little village, rendered more lovely by the River Bovey.
It is the fall of the Becka brook into the Bovey that provides the
popular Becky Falls; but in summer, as Mr. Baring-Gould says, this is
rather a water trickle than a waterfall; in autumn and winter, when
fewer visitors see it, the stream is a turbulent torrent. Not far
distant is the beautiful Lustleigh Cleave, which though not on the
moor is thoroughly moorland in its character and its antiquities. So
hugely piled are the boulders at its foot that the river is generally
quite out of sight, to be heard but not seen.
But to get to a typical moorland parish we must not linger at
Lustleigh; we must go out to Widecombe, and by whatever road we reach
it we shall understand the sad fate of Tom Pearce's old mare.
Widecombe is in a hollow surrounded by heights and tors (it must be
understood that the word tor is only used where the granite actually
protrudes from the soil). Bel, Rippon, and Hey Tors are on one side,
Hamildon Down on the other. The valley, which is only low in
comparison with the surrounding hills, was much worked in days out of
date by the tin-streamers, and there is a plentiful growth of pines
and sycamores above the traces they left.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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