It is more interesting to pass on to one of the loveliest portions of
the moorland border, that which is watered by the Rivers Dart after
their junction at Dartmeet. We have already seen the West Dart at Two
Bridges, and the East Dart should be explored at least to Postbridge.
It is especially beautiful where it is joined by the Walla, at the
foot of Yes Tor. Dartmeet is a small settlement of houses, and
deserves to be popular, for while quite on the moorland it has none of
the desolate aspect that some persons find depressing, and those who
love woods can get them to perfection around Holne and Buckland.
Tourists who have been up the river from Dartmouth to Totnes are
inclined to think that they know the Dart; they are as much mistaken
as those who think they know the Wye when they have been to Symond's
Yat. To know the Dart its moorland recesses must be explored, where
the stream is in its fresh impetuous youth; below Totnes, though its
banks are undoubtedly lovely, it has become chastened and sobered. At
the junction of the Wallabrook with the Dart is a very fine view of
Yar Tor, near which is the luxuriant Brimpts plantation.
The meeting of the two Darts is in a low rock-strewn gorge, to
appreciate which the roadway must be left. Near is the Coffin-stone,
with its inscribed crosses, used as a resting-place for the dead on
their way to burial. It is said that when a man of notorious
wickedness was being carried to his grave, his coffin as usual was
rested on this stone, and a flash of fire struck downward from a
passing cloud, consuming the body and splitting the solid rock. The
cleft remains as a proof. The rocks of this district are frequently of
metallic substance, and are often struck by lightning; perhaps this
kills the romance of the legend.
Buckland-in-the-Moor, so called to distinguish it from other
Bucklands, is not strictly on the moorland at all, and is cradled in
woodland; it is a very small, delightful village, close to the united
Webburns, which join the Dart below. The river here flows in most
tortuous fashion under the beautiful woods of Buckland Drive and Holne
Chase. Holne Cot has a place in literature as the birthplace of
Charles Kingsley, in 1819, but he left it when an infant. Another
literary remembrance is the birth of the dramatist Ford at Ilsington,
and Tavistock had a true poet in William Browne; but it must be
confessed that the literary glories of the moorland are not great, and
Carrington, its special poet, is quite a third-rate writer. There has
been no Wordsworth to interpret Dartmoor. We have to come to modern
fiction, in the books of Mr. Baring-Gould and Mr. Phillpotts, for
anything like an adequate literary treatment; and even in this
department there has been no _Lorna Doone_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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