At Holne and Buckland may be found some of the most luxuriant woodland
of the moor-borders, yellow with dense primroses in the spring. On
both sides of the river there are rich woods of birch and oak and fir,
while in the valley through which the Dart runs are fertile succulent
marshes, beautified with bogbeans, asphodels, and sundews, and with
the exquisite _Osmunda regalis_ flourishing where, happily, it is very
difficult to reach. In parts the river flows through ivied crags,
above which hang clusters of mountain-ash. There are prehistoric
remains at Holne and at Hembury, but it is difficult to think of the
past where the present is of such insistent charm. Moor, woodland,
river, stone-strewn waste and fertile pasture here meet, with no
discord or violent contrast, but harmonized by a reconciling
atmosphere of beauty. The churches both at Buckland and Holne have
very interesting screens, and at Holne is a finely-carved wooden
pulpit.
Though it can scarcely be said to belong to the moors, Ashburton is a
good starting-point for the examination of the eastern moorlands. Here
and at Buckfastleigh are the only remains of the once extensive Devon
woollen manufactures; and Ashburton was also at one time a Stannary
town. It has a good church and many interesting associations, but we
cannot linger either here or at Buckfast, where a settlement of
Benedictines has restored the old abbey.
There is a great temptation to stay awhile at Dean Prior for the sake
of Robert Herrick, one of England's sweetest lyrists, who was twice
vicar here, being presented by Charles I in 1629, dispossessed at the
Commonwealth, and reinstated at the Restoration. He abused the
neighbourhood so heartily in his verse that it is surprising he should
have accepted the living a second time; but perhaps he said a little
more than he meant. The exact spot of his burial in the churchyard is
unknown. Some of Herrick's lyrics are so lovely that even Devonians
must forgive him, though he wrote:
"O men, O manners; now and ever known
To be a rocky generation,
A people currish, churlish as the seas,
And rude almost as rudest savages;
With whom I did and may re-sojourn when
Rocks turn to rivers, rivers turn to men".
As he returned voluntarily to this exile, we must imagine the miracle
to have taken place, or perhaps his own heart had been tamed by his
adversity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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