Beyond Berry Head, which forms the end of a broad promontory, worn at
its base into many caves, and noted for its quarries, there extends
for many miles--all the way, in fact, to the mouth of the Dart--a
stretch of very beautiful coast-line, with low but finely-coloured
cliffs of sandstone and limestone and slate, varying in tint from red
to purple, and from brown to grey, with a series of sandy bays and
fringed by outlying rocks, two of which are called Mewstones. One of
these, standing just where the coast sweeps round to the estuary of
the Dart, is a lofty pinnacle of stone more than 100 feet high. Well
inside the mouth of the Dart, on the steep slope of its left or eastern
entrance, is the quaint little town of Kingswear; and opposite to it,
on the western shore, lies Dartmouth, once a noted port, but now only
a favourite yachting station. The old man-of-war, the _Britannia_,
anchored here close to land and long used as a training-ship, has been
superseded by a naval college on shore, and is now used only as a store.
Dartmouth is a place of much historic interest. It was from here that
part of Richard C[oe]ur de Lion's crusading fleet sailed for Palestine.
The port furnished thirty-one ships towards Edward III's attack on
Calais. Twice, in the half century that followed, it was plundered by
the French. It played a prominent part in the Civil War, and was taken
first by Prince Maurice, and afterwards by Fairfax.
[Illustration: The "Britannia" and "Hindostan" in Dartmouth Harbour]
Between the mouth of the Dart and Start Point, nine miles as the crow
flies, is Start Bay, walled for about half its length with low and
quiet-coloured cliffs of slate, and fringed in great part with sand
and shingle. At Blackpool, a picturesque little cove near the northern
end of the bay, du Chastel the Breton landed, in 1404, on a pillaging
expedition, for the plundering was not all on the side of the English.
But the Frenchman was killed, with 400 of his men, and 200 more were
taken prisoners. Half-way along the shore of Start Bay are Slapton
Sands, where a beach of small and brightly-coloured pebbles and a
bank of shingle separate the long and narrow lake called Slapton Ley
from the waters of the Channel. Off this spot, marked by two beacons
on the shore, is the spot, "measured mile" for testing the speed of
steamships. Not far from Slapton the coast rises again, and above the
fishing villages of Hallsands and Beesands, which stand at the water's
edge, reaches a height of some hundreds of feet. The people of these two
little hamlets train powerful dogs, which, in rough weather, swim out
through the surf, catch the painters thrown to them and thus enable the
fishing-boats to be dragged ashore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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