Mexico -- History -- 1910-1946; Mexico City (Mexico) -- Social life and customs
I went through the shining Alameda, where again Indian life was beating
its full around the little booths--preparing for the Resurrection morn.
There is something simple and affecting about the way they regulate
their commerce by these festivals of the year, this peaceful, almost
rhythmic flooding in and out of the city. Now the booths are full of
toy wagons, with screaming, harsh-sounding wheels, rattles of every
description--in fact, any harsh combination of sounds which represents
the breaking of the bones of Judas.
The Indian must have gods--and it is better to have him worshiping the
image of one God, the God of gods, and His attributes, than sacrificing
to Huitzilopochtli, Quetzalcoatl, and their like, in blood and terror,
or wandering in the colorless and empty places of unbelief.
At San Juan de Dios I came upon a family group so charming and so
artless that I could scarcely take my eyes from them. The mother,
a straight-haired Indian woman, with the usual small, loose upper
garment and the straight piece of cloth wrapped about her hips, had the
sweetest little baby peeping out from the rebozo which bound it across
her back. An old oil-can, filled with what I know not what, was by her
side. The father carried a platter of dusty pink sweets, and a tribe of
soft, bright-eyed, smiling children accompanied them. The next youngest
to the baby was on the father's shoulder, who laid his hat before him
with his platter, on the altar steps. His eyes were uplifted. All were
silent and immobile, even the baby looking intently at the altar of
the Repository, banked with flowers, ablaze with candle-light, and
decorated with a few cages wherein were some small, bright-plumaged
birds.
The church is part of an old chapel erected in the sixteenth century
to Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados (Our Lady of the Forsaken Ones);
but somehow that group fulfilling its destiny did not seem forsaken,
but a part of the mysterious human fabric of which I myself was just
as mysterious a bit. Before the beautiful recessed portal in the rich
baroque façade, whose adjacent wall is ornamented in a Mauresque
design, a remnant of the earliest colonial period, was a varied
assortment of beggars--also not disinherited, it seemed to me--but
called to partake of the sorrows of the _Madre de Dios_ whom they so
loudly invoked as I passed in.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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