Charleston, as I have said before, is strictly conservative in its
principles, and in many respects is much the same to-day as it was then.
In spite of all its reverses--the internal struggles of the Cavaliers
and Puritans, who brought hither their old quarrels and prejudices along
with their household gods, from over the sea, its strife with the
Indians, its troubles during the British occupation, and its terrible
disasters during the late four years’ conflict--it still retains many of
its old characteristics; its features are the same, though cruelly
scarred with the flames and sword of war. We pass on our way through
Meeting Street, one of the chief thoroughfares of the city; it is a
long, straight, not overwide, shady street, with beautiful trees on
either side, and has a look of almost cloistered quiet about it. There
are several handsome churches embosomed in bowers of green, and the
ruins of an ancient cathedral, which was burned by accident more than
twenty years ago; they point this out as proudly, and cherish it as
fondly, as though it were a legitimate ruin, a wreck that old time had
left upon their shores.
The long stretch of houses on either side are not of any specially
varied or picturesque style of architecture; they are three stories
high, and have a rather curious appearance, as they turn their backs
upon the streets, or rather stand sideways like pews in a church, their
fronts facing seaward, to catch the cool sea breeze which blows down
from the battery above. The three-storied piazzas running round every
house, the green venetians wholly or partly closed, not a soul in sight,
either from within or without, give an appearance of almost oriental
seclusion to the place; one half expects to see some dark, laughing
beauty peeping out from among the flowers. The dear old city is full of
romance and beauty everywhere, and as we pass through the silent
street--silent, yet speaking with an eloquence that surpasses
speech--the ghost of the dead days seems marching with muffled feet
beside us, and the very stones seem to have a story to tell. We feel as
though we have fallen upon an enchanted land, where time is standing
still, and the years have grown grey with watching. Here and there we
come upon a large empty mansion, one of the grand dwellings of old
colonial days, whence the tenants have been driven by adverse
circumstances; it stands staring down upon the street with blank, glassy
eyes, perhaps with a rent in its side, and its face bruised and
battered, its discoloured, painted skin peeling off, and slowly rotting.
People have neither time nor money to rehabilitate these ancient
mansions; they must needs be deserted by their owners, who have gone to
seek their fortunes in the eastern cities, while the old homes are left
to decay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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