From this pretty shady street we come out upon the Battery, and stand
for a moment to look round upon the peaceful scene, and enjoy the balmy
breeze which sweeps straight from the near Gulf Stream. This is a
delightful promenade and pleasure ground, where the good Charlestonians
from time immemorial have come for their evening stroll, or to sit under
the leafy shade of the scrub-oaks, gossiping with their neighbours. The
Battery grounds front the land-locked bay--a sheet of crystal water
about three miles wide--around which, and on the opposite side, lies a
perfect garland of softly-swelling green islands, which stretch far away
out of our sight. On each side, running like arms from the bay, are the
Ashley and Cooper rivers, holding the town in their watery embrace.
Around three sides of the Battery there runs an elevated promenade,
raised about two feet from the grounds, which are beautifully laid out
in pretty, white shell walks, grassy turf, and gorgeous flower beds,
while groups of fine old forest trees, that have heard the whispering of
many centuries, spread their leafy branches far and wide. Turning their
backs upon the town and facing this lovely land-and-water scene, stands
a variegated collection of fine old-fashioned houses of quaint
architecture. Some are landmarks of the old colonial days; each one
differs in form and colour from the other, but all are fanciful
structures with elaborate ornamentation; some are circular, some flat
fronted, some curving in a fantastic fashion, and seeming to look round
the corner on their friends and neighbours, to assure them they are not
proud though they have turned their backs upon them; some have wide
balconies of stone, some light verandahs with green venetian blinds or
graceful ironwork clinging to their front; but everywhere creeping
plants and brilliant flowers are growing.
The view on all sides is most picturesque and lovely, and the fragrant
air is a delight to the senses. Here is the real aristocratic part of
the city, and here to this day, in spite of the many freaks of fortune,
the descendants of the old Huguenot and Cavalier families inhabit the
homes of their ancestors, whose familiar names still echo on the ears of
the town. With lagging footsteps we take our way homeward through the
city, losing ourselves and finding ourselves more than once. Altogether
we come to the conclusion that Charleston is a sober suited, gentlemanly
city strongly impregnated with the savour of old days; somewhat worn and
grey, but thoroughly dignified and pleasant, full of old-world
prejudices and decorum that no flighty tourist would care to outrage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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