Later the fan sleeves of the 18th century were enhanced in a similar way by the curved and scalloped shaping, which was used as late as the Victorian sixties with happy effect on the polonaises. Now, as regards the finest corset dress, the palm must be given to the sack-back dress of the eighteenth century (not in the period of its distortion with hoops), and a full setting showed it to greatest advantage. This type of design lent itself to more variety in beauty of arrangement than any other; the looping, reefing, and tying always set gracefully in accord with the back fall. The easy exchange of the stomacher also gave additional chance of effect, and the beauty of the fan-shaped sleeve, with its lace falls at the elbow, was a delightful creation. How rich and refined this character could be, without the monstrous forms and head-dresses which later invaded it and turned it into ornate absurdity! When we examine the period of Charles I, we find much charming dignity in the adaptations of earlier inventions; the collar settings were noble, indeed perfect, in arrangement, and the bodice decoration and proportions most interesting. For the grace of girlhood no dresses are happier than those of the early 19th century to 1830, and the inventions in trimmings through this period were prolific in beauty and lightness of style. Analysis of the many fashion-plates and original dresses of this period will well repay all interested in beautiful needlecraft and dress design. The arrangement of frills, insertions, gathered effects, applied forms, and tasselled or buttoned additions, will be found full of beauty and novelty, especially in the dresses of white embroidery. Plates XXIII and XXIV (see pp. 218-231) give some happy examples of this time. [Illustration: Plate I.--Boots and Shoes from the 14th to the 19th Centuries. 1. Charles II. 2. James II. 3. William and Mary. 4. George II. 5. George III., 1770. 6. George III., 1760. 7. George III., 1780-1800. 8. 1870-1880. 9. William and Mary. 10. 1680-1700. 11. 1680-1702. 12. 1750-1775. 13. 1580-1625. 14. 1710-1730. 15. Henry VIII. 16. Semi-Clog, 1780-1800. 17. Henry VIII. 18. 1778-1795. 19. Late 15th Century or early 16th Century. 20. 1500-1540. 21. Late 14th Century to middle of 15th Century. 22. 1530-1555. 23. 1535-1555.]