Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
A word on the most condemned flow of fashion during the Victorian era.
There are many dresses of real charm to be found amongst the mass of
heavy styles which must not be overlooked in studying design and style.
Even the crinoline dress, when treated with the exquisite silk gauzes,
as Fig. 3 in Plates XXXI and XXXIII (see pp. 270-282), was as alluring
as any woman could wish, and the original design of the jacket in the
latter figure, with its richly embroidered, long-skirted front cut short
at the back, arranged itself perfectly on this type of undersetting.
There was notable refinement of effect and beauty of proportion in many
dresses of the sixties, as exemplified in Fig. A, Plate XXXII (see p.
279), the waist being set rather high, and the very full skirt carried
back by the crinoline being held thus with its cross ties.
CHAPTER I
PREHISTORIC DRESS. FEMALE.
The woman's attire would have been chiefly a shortish skirt or wrap of
coarse linen, wool, or leather, gathered in front or folded at one hip;
grass cloth may also have been in use in most primitive tribes. Probably
the upper part of the body was kept bare, except for many ornaments and
necklaces, but a bodice or jacket cut in the same simple form as the
male shirt, with a heavy belt or girdle, would have been used, and
certainly a large shawl, which could be wrapped over the head and round
the figure during inclement hours. Dyed or painted patterns on the
cloths might well have been also in use, their chief designs being
stripes, circles or dots, zigzag lines, diamonds and plaid squares, rope
patterns and plaited patterns. The hair would have been loose, plaited,
or coiled on top, held by bone pins or circlets of bronze.
PREHISTORIC DRESS. MALE.
We have little description or illustration to certify the actual dress
of the early inhabitants of Britain, but we can draw conclusions with
pretty certain assurance, from the knowledge of their mode of living.
From their attainments in artistic design and handiwork, it is clear
they had arrived at a very high state of savage culture before the Roman
invasion; and we have only to study the better types of savage life
still in progress, to picture how our own primitive race would be likely
to dress under the conditions of climate. The thousands of "finds,"
which accumulate evidence every year, give us a closer acquaintance with
their customs and work. The rest we must imagine from our general
knowledge of what they had to contend with in climate, forest, cave, and
floods.
These early people, it is presumed from certain discoveries, had long
known the art of coarsely weaving flax and wool, which must soon have
been in general use, from its being healthier and cleaner than the
garments of skin. And very probably a coarse linen, with simple dyes of
red, blue, yellow, and brown, was in use here when the Romans came.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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