Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers — John Shaqi
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
The enumeration of these items will give a pretty definite idea of how
the early race would appear in their more or less attired form. In
fighting, they cleared for action (as it were) and discarded all
clothing, their only protection being a shield of wicker or wood covered
with leather; it may have been studded with bronze plates or painted
with grotesque characters, as were their own bodies, in true savage
style, to strike fear into their enemies; it is even possible feather
decorations formed part of their "get up."
CHAPTER II
THE DEVELOPMENT OF COSTUME TO THE TENTH CENTURY. FEMALE.
The female head-dress consisted chiefly of flowing hair banded with a
circlet of various shapes, but a development of braiding plaits is found
very early, and the hair was probably arranged so before the Roman era.
These plaits were generally brought over the shoulder to the front, the
hair being parted in the centre, thus making an oval forehead. Various
caps began to show originality, and jewels were set in the centre of the
forehead on the little crown-like hat, which must have been most
becoming. Squares of coloured stuffs were draped over the head and
shoulders, sometimes upon white linen squares, and many ladies began to
bind the face and head, shutting out the hair, in the 8th century. The
kerchief draping is very important to study, because it was the general
mode amongst the people.
Heavy collars of ornament and strings of beads, hanging even to the
waist, are noticeable features of these centuries, also large ear-rings.
A full cloak, with a large clasp or brooch, opened in front, or was
turned to free one shoulder; there was also a long "drape" thrown round
over the opposite shoulder or brought picturesquely over the head.
The ecclesiastical form of cloak as described in the male attire was
also formed about the 6th century; its graceful line was frequently
bordered completely with a band of ornament, and it was clasped just
across the breasts.
The complete circular cloak, with a hole for the head, is seen very
early, decorated with a pinked edge, which may also be noted on some of
the short dresses of the middle classes. Aprons are no doubt of the
earliest origin. A loose tunic falling to the hips was girded rather
high up the body, as in the classic dress, and bands passing both
outside or crossing between the breasts and going over the shoulder came
from the same source; these were with, or without, short sleeves to the
elbow. A long loose robe was the chief attire to the 6th century,
belted rather high in the waist, and caught up with a girdle at the
hips; these girdles gave a great interest to the early centuries, with
the art of arranging the fullness of skirt into its hold.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
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