Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
The head-dress consisted of a cap of fur or wool, probably decorated
with a feather, over loose and most likely very unkempt hair falling to
the shoulders. The Gauls cut their locks from the back of the head,
often tying up the remainder in a tuft on the top; no doubt the hair was
sometimes plaited or pinned up with wood, bone, or bronze ornaments.
Bone pins, teeth, and boar tusks were carried in the ears, as well as
studs of bone or stone in the underlip, and even the cheek may have been
so decorated, as it was amongst the Esquimaux. The face and body were
painted with red and white ochre and a blue stain. The neck was adorned
with strings of teeth, stones, amber, jet, bronze, and probably beads of
glass or baked clay coloured. Amulets and tokens, armlets and bracelets
were all in use. Also the torque, a twisted rod of gold flattened or
curled together at the ends, was a mark of dignity. A wristlet of wood,
bone, or leather was worn when the bow and arrows were used. The arms
were a spear of flint or bronze and a dagger of the same, a hatchet or
heavy club, a mace studded with flint or bronze spikes, and the sling,
which would have necessitated a leather wallet to carry the stones; fish
spears and snags. Also the bolas for felling cattle seems to have been
known; in fact nearly all the usual implements appertaining to savage
life were in use.
[Illustration: Plate II.--
(_a_) Elizabethan Robe in Plush. 1585-1605.
(_b_) Elizabethan Robe in Silk Brocade. 1565-85.
(_c_) Elizabethan Male Robe in Velvet Brocade. 1580-1615.
(_d_) Back-piece of Elizabethan Doublet in Embroidered Linen.
1580-1605.
_Measures, see p. 281._
_Sleeve pattern of C, see p. 300._]
The first item of male attire was of two skins fastened at the
shoulders, and from this we get the early chasuble form (which may be so
beautifully treated, even to the present time), girt with a leather
thong or strap at the waist. One skin lapped the other, and hardly
needed sewing together at the sides, while thus it was easier to throw
off; it may also have been tied up between the legs. The fur was worn
both inside and out, according to the weather; this large skin wrap
would also be worn cross-ways with the right shoulder free, and the
simple cloak of various lengths with a hole for the head to pass through
was no doubt one of the first discoveries in costume.
A loin cloth or skin may have been worn alone, caught up through the
legs and fastened at the back of the waist with a heavy belt and set
well down the hips. This would hold a number of personal necessities, in
the shape of a wallet and dagger. The legs would be wrapped with skins,
tied up or crossed by leather or sinew thongs, or with hemp or grass
rope. Skins were probably also used on the feet, gathered and tied above
the instep and round the ankle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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