Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
The chasuble-shaped overdress was worn to the middle of the 14th
century, sleeveless, and, laced or sewn tight to the figure from the arm
to the hip, or completely down the sides, generally reached just below
the knee.
The shoes were of much the same character as those of the male examples
illustrated, though they hardly reached the same extravagance in length,
owing, no doubt, to the feet of woman being hampered by her skirt; but I
suspect they even braved high wooden clogs, as we know they did the tall
chopins of the 16th century, to heighten their stature.
[Illustration: Plate V.--
(_a_) Jerkin. Period James I.
(_b_) Lady's Bodice of Slashed and Vandyked Satin. 1635-50.
(_c_) Jerkin of Embroidered Linen. 1630-60.
(_d_) Jerkin of Embroidered Linen. 1580-1635.
_Pattern measurements, see p. 293._]
TENTH TO THE FIFTEENTH CENTURY. MALE.
From the 10th to the 15th century, we find costume developing rapidly
into elaborate and interesting designs. Close relations with the
Continent brought new ideas, and rich velvets and brocades interwoven
with gold enhanced the gorgeousness of attire, while the introduction of
heraldic design brought in a very picturesque element. Hats and
head-dresses began to become important features, enlarging to eccentric
shapes and proportions, only equalled in the extravagant part of the
18th century.
It may be noted that feminine fashion, as it assumes new characters and
proportions, affects the style of the male clothes in the same way, as,
when a high or pointed head-dress comes in, the male hat also increases
its size; the same with curved or angular designs, full or tight
sleeves.
The hair was worn long and rather squared in shape at the back till the
end of the 15th century. A tendency to shut in the face by close hoods
tied under the chin is remarked, and this forms a strong feature of the
13th and 14th centuries. Ear-rings were seldom worn after the 10th
century; but the neck was generally adorned with heavy chain
decorations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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