The long-pointed shoes began to increase all through the 13th century, and in the 14th century they reached their greatest length, when the points were often tied up to a garter just below the knee. Wooden clogs were much used, and were often considerably raised. Iron circular supports were also in use at the end of this time; these were the foretaste of the eccentric chopins of the 16th century, which were more favoured on the Continent than here. The pointed toes also were made to curl outwards, giving a splay-footed effect, late in the 14th century. [Illustration: FIG. 20.--Fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.] CHAPTER IV FIFTEENTH CENTURY. FEMALE. We have now arrived at the height of eccentric fashion in mediæval head-dress. The hornlike creations, studded with jewels, and peaks of wondrous height, both draped with fine muslins and often completely shutting away the hair from sight, had a supporting cap which mostly came over ears and cheeks, and a clutch is seen on the forehead, at times concealed by a jewel. The hair was generally allowed to fall loose under the back drape, or a long plait is sometimes seen at the back with the first-named head-dress. The back drape setting from the brow down the back was well conceived to balance the high spire, but it seems to have been discarded during the reign of Edward V, and light veil falls were worn which often came half over the face. In Henry VII's time the extreme fashion came in the shape of a closely-fitting curved cap, with a fall of material over the back. The ermine-trimmed jacket was still in favour to the middle of the last-named reign, when it was worn low down over the hips. [Illustration: FIG. 21.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.] [Illustration: FIG. 22.--Middle of fifteenth century to sixteenth century.] [Illustration: Plate VII.-- (_a_) Herald's Coat. Embroidered Velvet and Silk. 1st half 17th Century. Measured pattern, page 301. (_b_) Lady's Bodice of Black Velvet. 1630-60. _Measurement, see p. 297._ (_c_) Black Silk Jerkin. 1640-60.] [Illustration: FIG. 23.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.] The chief dress of this period had a =V=-shaped collar-front meeting at the waist, mostly made in black material or fur. It was wide on the shoulder, and seems to have been stiffened to set out; the =V= shape was generally filled in with velvet, and a very wide band encircled the waist; a girdle is occasionally noted. The keys' pocket and other requisites were generally carried on the underskirt during these times. The skirt was full and gathered to the back in a train, the gathers often running into the bodice; a very wide border is prevalent, even to the middle of the thigh. Tight sleeves are usual, and hanging sleeves were worn, mostly set in a very short sleeve, which assume a puff-shape in Henry VII's reign; long cuffs, almost covering the hand, are seen on many sleeves. [Illustration: FIG. 24.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]