[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.] [Illustration: Plate VIII.--(_a_) (_b_) (_c_) Three Suits. Period Charles II.] [Illustration: FIG. 26.--End of fifteenth century.] Modes of opening the skirt up to the hips occasionally showed themselves, and even the sides to the hips are seen laced. In the earlier dress, about 1485, the neck setting of dress became very square, and was filled with fine-drawn lawn. The square shape rises in a curved centre before the end of this period, and a close-fitting robe was worn with a girdle, often opened up the sides. The short upper sleeve and full outer sleeve so much in vogue gave place to a divided upper and lower sleeve, laced or tied with ribbon, with puffs of lawn pulled through the openings at shoulder and elbow, and down the back of the forearm. Slashes are now seen in most sleeves, and an Italianesque character pervaded the fashion. High, soft boots and shoes of a similar shape to the male description were worn, and changed when the square-toe shoes came in. Through this period there are many interesting details of costume to study, while gilt tags, finishing laces, and ribbons are to be remarked from this period. FIFTEENTH CENTURY. MALE. [Illustration: FIG. 27.--Fifteenth century.] [Illustration: FIG. 28.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.] [Illustration: FIG. 29.--Middle of fifteenth century.] The chief shapes to mark in this century in male head-dress is the increased height of the tall hats which rise to vie with the female fashions. We still see a round hat with a rolled edge and long fall over one side, besides shorter folds in the crown, both scalloped or foliated at the edge, and this shape may be noted till about 1460. Some of these hats were made without a crown, as in Fig. 28 (see p. 94); the roll was decorated, as a rule, with jewelled studs. A top hat, something like our present shape, appears, but more belled at the top and also a padded, rolled brim. It was made in various rich materials, and often decorated with jewels. The peak-fronted hat still continued to be favoured till about 1480, its chief difference being a crown more eccentric in height. Tall cylinder hats, with folded brims or no brim, and other shapes are illustrated. The variety is so great through this period that it is well to study the vagaries of fashion which I have illustrated in sequence as far as possible; they were mostly used till about the last quarter of this century, when the low-crowned flat hat with turned-up brim began to secure the fashion. This was generally worn tilted on one side and often over a scarlet skull-cap. A large bunch of plumes came in with this hat, set up from the front, curving backwards, and giving a very grand effect: with most of the tall hats the feather was set at the back. [Illustration: FIG. 30.--Fifteenth century.] [Illustration: FIG. 31.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.] [Illustration: FIG. 32.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]