No. 1. 14th century. 2. 15th century. 3. " " 4. Late 16th cent. 5. 1580-1610. 6. " " 7. 1605-1640. 8. 1600-1625. 9. 1550-1600. 10. 1610-1640. 11. 1590-1620. 12. 1605-1630. 13. 1675-1695. 14. 1670-1690. 15. 1680-1700. 16. 1690-1720. 17. 1680-1700. 18. 1700-1750. 19. 1700-1780. 20. 1700-1760. 21. 1740-1780. 22. 1745-1780. 23. 1770-1800. 24. 1730-1760. 25. 1700-1780. 26. 1830-1860. 27. 1780-1800. 28. 1840-1870. 29. " " ] [Illustration: Plate IX.-- (_a_) Lady's Embroidered Silk Jacket. 1605-30. (_b_) Lady's Bodice of Silk Brocade. 1680-1700.] [Illustration: FIG. 39.--Decorated Leather, 15th and 16th centuries. _Comb case_ _purse_ _Cut leather. 15 cent._ _Leather_ _Pierced leather, 16 cent._ _Bronze studs 15 or 16 cent._ _metal studs_ _Incised lines with metal studs 15 cent._] Shoes and boots were still worn with very long pointed toes till about 1465, when a proclamation was issued for beaks or piked shoes not to pass two inches, and after this time a broad round-toed shoe began to appear. Soft high boots to the top of the thigh, with folded top, belong to this century, as well as the fashionable boot to the calf. The sword or dagger was carried towards the front or side, and a small dagger across the belt at the back. The pouch or purse was also used as a dagger support. CHAPTER V SIXTEENTH CENTURY. CHARACTER OF TRIMMINGS. Before the 16th century we find the art of decoration in costume had been confined chiefly to applied ornamental bands at the neck, waist, and borders of skirt and cloak. They had up till this time utilised, with great artistry of design (no doubt partly due to the heraldic study), the patterns of the finely decorated damasks and velvets. The counter colour effects and relative proportions, such as a small-patterned, dull-coloured silk setting off a large full-coloured design was ably considered, as well as the introduction of a nicely-balanced black note or setting, which proved these designers were highly skilled in judgment of style. They also discovered the art of giving enrichment and lightness to the effect by means of the various serrated edgings to the materials, which also gave a flutter to the movement. A preference of lacing for fastening added to the charm of the dress, but the long rows of close buttons were also a feature of the clinging robes, the clasps and brooches, neck-chains, girdle, belt, and wallet being further very important items of enrichment to the effect.