The notable change in the tunic, which was worn both very short and to the ground, was the arrangement of folds to the back and front, gathered to a =V= shape at the waist. The hanging sleeve began to go out of favour after the middle of the century, but the sleeve or cuff covering the hand was continued till the end of this century. A sleeve, full at the shoulder, is found, and short, round, padded sleeves came in, worn over a close-fitting sleeve. This short sleeve became raised on the shoulder, and was cut or looped up the outer side: a long loose outer sleeve is also seen in conjunction with these short ones. A very short jacket is notable, of a plain square shape, with a plain sleeve on the left arm and a hanging sleeve on the right to the knee. The tight-fitting jerkin, laced down the front, was worn with this as with most other coats. [Illustration: FIG. 33.--End of fifteenth century.] [Illustration: FIG. 34.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.] [Illustration: Plate VIIIa-- (_a_) Suit of Embroidered Silk. 1610-30. (_b_) Three Sword Hangers Embroidered in Gold. Charles II. (_c_) Braided Suit. 1670-90.] [Illustration: FIG. 35.--Fifteenth-century Shoes and Clogs.] The high collar to the throat had gone out for a collar opened in front. Very short and very long "chasubles" were worn with or without sleeves which were gathered high and full at the shoulders. The sleeves were now sometimes slit open at the back and held with several ties, as linen sleeves are now shown with these. Parti-coloured tights were not so much favoured through this period, but a decorated thigh, or part of the thigh and knee, was a favourite method of enrichment. [Illustration: FIG. 36.] A long coat came in at the later part of this time, with a deep =V=-shaped collar meeting at the waist; it was also cut into a square shape at the shoulders, as in Fig. 43 (see p. 119). A loose bell-shaped sleeve usually went with this, often opened in the front of the upper arm. A short square cape is at times seen in conjunction with this. A low square or round neck shape came in during the last quarter of this century, filled in with a fine gathered lawn and a tight-fitting coat with a pleated skirt and full padded sleeves, or a tight sleeve with a full puff or spherical upper part. [Illustration: FIG. 37. Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, second half of 15th century. Nos. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, variety of shapes from 1490 to 1630.] [Illustration: FIG. 38.