The modes at the end of the last century now developed into a heavier character of design. The long hair soon began to be closely cut, and a short beard came into fashion. A flat type of hat was worn, with serrated brim, or tabs which could be turned down at times, and others were kept in place by a lacing cord through holes. There was also a flat "Tam o' Shanter" shape, generally worn well tilted on one side, and amongst the upper classes mostly adorned with feathers. The =V=-shaped collar, or opening to the belt, was still retained on the jerkin, and plain or pleated skirts are seen, also a square close-fitting vest, with a low square neck, filled with gathered lawn, or one with a high neck and short collar, on which a very small ruff appeared for the first time, and at the wrist as well. These were now decorated with long slashes or gathered puffs: heraldic design was still seen on the breast, and even parti-colour was worn, but this character was now treated more by decorating with coloured bands on the tunics or tights. [Illustration: Plate X.-- (_a_) Black Velvet Bodice. 1600-25. (_b_) Five Embroidered Waistcoats. Between 1690 and 1800. _Pattern, see p. 292._] [Illustration: FIG. 43.--Period Henry VIII.] [Illustration: FIG. 44.--Cap shapes. Period Henry VIII.] [Illustration: FIG. 45.--Variety of shapes and slashing. Henry VIII.] Long coats were still worn of the shape described at the end of the 15th century, but a short surcoat was the mode, reaching just below the knee, sleeveless, or with the various hanging sleeves of this period, the fronts usually turned back to form a wide collar, either round or square in shape on the shoulder, or at times falling to a deep square at the back. The sleeves were full in the upper part, tightening to the wrist, sometimes open up to the elbow and laced, or they were pleated into a full round shape at the shoulder. Puffs and slashings increased in these designs, and by 1520 we find the sleeves mostly divided into puffed and slashed forms, which grew to fantastic proportions. Very short, tight breeches or trunks, with a front flap or codpiece, were decorated to match the body design and colour schemes; they increased in length to the knee, or just below, during this reign, and usually finished in a serrated roll. [Illustration: Plate XI.--16 Leather Boots and Shoes. Between 1535 and 1860. 1. 1740-1780. 2. 1535-1550. 3. 1680-1700. 4. 1645-1690. 5. 1665-1685. 6. 1690-1710. 7. 1845-1860. 8. 1790-1820. 9. 1665-1670. 10. 1800-1820. 11. 1820-1840. 12. " 13. 1815-1850. 14. 1760-1780. 15. 1650-1670. 16. 1630-1660.] [Illustration: FIG. 46.--Footwear, 1510-1540.]