Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
Many beautifully embroidered caps, jerkins, jackets, and shirts are seen
at this period in gold and black or coloured silks. Slashings of this
reign, though in fashion, had commenced to go out; and those retained
were of a large character, mostly from the neck or shoulder to the
breast. The favoured sleeves were cut into straps to the elbow or wrist,
and were often edged with braid, either side meeting together and lining
the forearm, the body being treated in the same way. The open-fronted
sleeve was set with buttons and loops or long braided buttonholes with
frayed or knotted ends, though these were not generally fastened. The
tight undersleeve was often set with gold or silver narrow braids down
the front and back seams, and close lines of small braids horizontally
round the arm, or vertically when the outer sleeve was treated
horizontally, this gave a beautiful counterchanged effect.
Many of the ladies' caps of this time had beautiful gold scrolls, with
flowers and birds embroidered in coloured silks, also loose jackets of
the same were in use. The bodice was banded with braids or lace on the
front and seams, and the stomacher was often of fine embroidery; set
rosettes or bows were placed at the waist. Other finishing effects of
collar or sleeve, and the button and buttonhole decorations were made
important features on both male and female sleeves, and even down the
front of the outer skirt when it was not treated with lace. Red heels to
shoes began to be worn and continued to the end of the 18th century in
marked favour.
THE COMMONWEALTH.
During this short period the character and placing of braiding was the
same as in the latter part of last reign; slashing had almost completely
gone out, except for the treatment of some ladies' sleeves cut into
bands. A very sober effect was assumed in colour schemes, besides a
plainer treatment in decoration, and a deep plain collar or a small
turn-over one was chiefly worn by the men, while the hat of the Puritan
rose to an absurd height, with a wide flat brim.
CHARLES II.
This may be named the period of ribbon trimmings, though braiding was
treated in broad lines on the short jackets and sleeves, and down the
sides of the breeches. A preference is shown for gold and silver lace,
or amongst the élite purfled silk edges; the new mode being a decoration
of groups of ribbon loops placed about the suit or dress. The notable
feature with the female dress was the gathering of drapery by means of
jewelled clasps, and groups of ribbon loops were also used, as with the
male dress. The edges of the materials were sometimes cut into scalloped
or classic forms, and a very simple voluminous character was fashion's
aim.
JAMES II AND WILLIAM AND MARY.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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