Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
The hair was still worn full at the sides over a comb, as in the former
reign, with curls dropping to the shoulders, but they now began to
discard the set-out comb and the little flat curls on the forehead, the
hair being of a round shape or parted from the centre and mounted higher
and narrower on the head, in the latter part of this reign. The same
large hoods and drapes continued in use, and a high goffered head-dress
with set-out front began to appear; the same shaped bodice with round
low neck showing the shoulders, often set with a stomacher front or
jewelled in that form, and smaller decorations of ribbon loops were
still favoured. A smaller and shorter sleeve began to appear with a
turned-up cuff, and the gathered-in lawn sleeves and ruffles caught here
and there with pearls or clasps as before, besides the same light
drapery clasped about the breast front. The overskirt was now looped
back, the points being held together, giving a wide display of the
underskirt, which was heavily banded or had a jewel setting down the
front. Other train skirts, also divided in front, were bordered with
drawn silk caught at intervals into long puffs. Very small muffs were
the fashion. Shoes increased their pointed shape and rather large heels
are to be noted, but some shoes assumed a very narrow square toe; they
were either tied from small latchets with a bow, or with buckled
latchets. Longer gloves were worn, and large full cloaks with hoods or
large drapery wraps when required for outdoor wear.
[Illustration: FIG. 77.--Costume notes. Period 1670-1690.]
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. JAMES II.
MALE.
The same long wig was worn as in the last reign, but the curls were more
of a set ringlet type, and embroidered caps were worn when these were
taken off. The face was now clean shaven until the 19th century. Hats
also of the older character were retained, but the turned-up
three-cornered shape, filled with short feathers, became more settled in
fashion, and they were heavily banded with gold braid or lace on the
edge.
[Illustration: FIG. 78.--Period 1690-1700.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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