Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
With George III we notice designs in straw work, decorations of
imitation flowers in ribbon-work and various materials, and much taste
in the choice of colour schemes, while the tassels of this period were
delightful creations. The designs of stuffs at the early part of the
century were generally of fine strong colour blends, but in the middle
period there was much questionable taste displayed in the heavy massing
of patterns, but this soon improved with the striped character crossed
by running flowers which was quite ideal in type for costume keeping,
grace, and lightness, with a beautiful interchange of colour.
The quilted silk and satin petticoats are a special feature to note in
these times; many simple and effective designs were in use, and they
added much glitter to the scheme. Aprons were also beautiful examples of
needlework, and were worn with the best of dresses to the middle of the
century; the earlier ones generally had a scalloped edging, and many had
pockets; gold lace edging or fringe was often used in the time of George
II, and they were all finely decorated with needlework in gold, silver,
or coloured silks. The white aprons were also of consummate needlecraft,
and hanging pockets worn at the sides were also a decorated feature, but
these only showed when the dress was worn tucked up. The later style of
dress became much simpler, consisting chiefly of gathered flounce
settings, fichus, and large mob caps; these were often daintily
embroidered with tambour work and large bow and sash settings, making
delightful costumes.
Bags, muffs, gloves, and shoes were all chosen for the display of
needlecraft, while artists and jewellers used all their skill on the
fans, patch-boxes, and étuis, and even the dress materials were often
painted by hand, while many painted Chinese silks were also utilised.
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. ANNE. FEMALE.
The hair was dressed in a simple manner, with two curls parted from the
centre of the forehead, and curved inwards on the brow. A loose ringlet
or two were brought on to the left shoulder, the rest being gathered
into a back-knot. Feathers or flowers were arranged on top, generally
with a pair of lace lappets falling to the back; these also adorned the
cap, which still bore the front goffered frills set out as in the last
reign, but these were diminished in size and were mostly of one row. We
note probably the last stage of this style appearing in a print of
Hogarth's, dated 1740.
[Illustration: FIG. 82.--Bodice types. Period 1690-1720.]
[Illustration: FIG. 83.--Costume type. 1695-1710.]
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