The wines of Hungary, we are told, “possess considerable body with a
moderate astringency.” The varieties of wine known as _Ausbruch_ and
_Maszlacs_, including the _Tokays_, _Rust_, _Menes_, and many more, are
of the most important character. Without the addition of dry berries the
so-called natural wine or _Szamorodni_ is obtained. The Tokay essence,
a very sweet wine, should be also very old. When fifty years in bottle
it costs some £3[33] for a small flask. Ausbruch, also sweet, should be
also old. _Maszlacz_ is of four different kinds. The _Mezes_, _Male_ or
_Imperial_, does not get into trade. _Meograd_, _Krasso_, and _Villany_
from the West of Hungary are good strong wines of the second class. Wines
of the third class are very numerous. There is no space to mention more
than the red wines: _Baranya_, _Presburger_, _Somogy_, _Vagh-Ujhelyer_,
_Paulitsch_, and _Erdöd_, and the white _Miszla_, _Balaton_, _Füred_,
_Hont_, _Pesth_, and _Weissenburger_. _Samlauer_ is one of the best white
wines made at a place called Samlau, as _Erlauer_ another good wine
at Erlau. The most commonly known Hungarian wines of the present are
_Oedenburger_, _Samlauer_, _Neszmely_, and _Carlowitz_.
ITALY.
That Italy produces good wines is, says Cyrus Redding, undeniable.
She also produces wines that are very bad. The best Italian wines are
believed to be of Tuscany. As Hafiz is the authority for _Shiraz_, so
Redi’s _Bacco in Toscana_ should be consulted for the wines of Italy.
_Monte Pulciano_ is of a purple hue, sweet and slightly astringent.
It is to this wine that Redi gives the palm, calling it _la manna di
Monte Pulciano_. The wine of _Chianti_, near Sienna, is well known.
_Artiminio_, _Poncino_, _Antella_, and _Carmignano_, though of less
reputation, are not greatly inferior. The best _Verdea_[34] comes from
Arcetri near Florence. _Trebbiano_, a gold-coloured syrup, is produced,
according to Drs. Thudichum and Dupré, from grapes, “passulated on the
vine by torsion of the stalk.” _Montelcino_, _Rimaneze_, and _Santo
Stefano_ are Siennese wines. Of Sardinia the chief wines are the
so-called _Malvasias_, _Giro_, _Aleatico_, like the _Tinto_ of Alicante,
and _Bosa_, _Ogliastra_, and _Sassari_. Of Piedmont the principal wines
are _Barolo_, _Barbera_, _Nebbiolo_, _Braccheto_. _Asti_, _Chaumont_,
_Alba_, and _Montferrat_ have had reputation thrust upon them.
_Grignolinos_ are made from a vine closely related to the _Kadarka_
of Hungary, and the _Carmenet_ of the Gironde. The wines of Genoa are
of small repute. Central Italy furnishes _Montefiascone_,[35] with a
delicious aroma, _Albano_, resembling _Lacryma Christi_, and _Orvieto_.
The principal wine of Naples, from the base of Vesuvius, is _Lacryma
Christi_, a rich, red, exquisite drink, affirmed by some adventurous
fancies to be the _Falernian_ of Horace. “O Christ!” said a Dutchman
who drank, “why didst Thou not weep in my country?” Gallipoli, Tarento,
Baia, Pausilippo, yield good wines.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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