Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
This iron buff is used to this day, though of course it has lost the
importance it had in the past. The red sails of the fishermen in the
Mediterranean show this color; and it is a useful and interesting
dye for weavers of hand-made rugs, curtains, and the like, because
of its pleasing tone and great permanence. On the other hand, it is
very likely to rub; and it fills the fibre of the cloth with mineral
matter, thereby making the material stiff and hard to sew or cut.
_Preparation._—Our colonial ancestors made this color cheaply enough.
They carefully saved all the scraps of iron and steel that they could
find—old horseshoes, broken knife blades, etc., etc.—and placed them
in a barrel half filled with vinegar and water. Little by little
the iron dissolved in the acid and, when it was strong enough, the
housewife would soak her homespun cloth, or other material, in the
solution, warming and stirring it, and making it absorb as much
of the liquor as possible. Then she would take it out, wring it
thoroughly, rinse it slightly, and dip it for a minute or two in
another barrel half filled with a water extract of wood ashes.
[Illustration: PLATE II. JAPANESE TOWELLING, SHOWING IMPRESSION OF
FRESH DAMP LEAVES]
After removing from the solution and wringing again, the goods were
shaken out and exposed to the air for some minutes, during which time
the color would develop—in other words, would make its final change
to yellow or orange, or even to brownish-red, according to the amount
of iron absorbed by the fibre.
The process, nowadays, is much the same, excepting that, for the
first or iron bath, it is cheaper and easier to use a solution of
the green crystalline iron salt, known as copperas, or as _ferrous_
(iron) _sulphate_. This can be obtained at, or through, any drug
store at a very low price, as it is not necessary to buy a chemically
pure product. The ordinary commercial salt is as pure as the work
requires; this dissolves quite readily in warm water.
The amount of copperas to be used, to dye a particular lot of
material a particular shade, can only be determined by experience and
experiment. It is always easy to build up a color, i.e., to deepen
its shade if it is too light, by dipping the fabric over again in
the same dye-bath. Indeed there is a general rule to be observed in
dyeing all colors like this iron buff or the manganese brown—as well
as the sulphur and indigo colors, which will be described later—that
are developed, or fixed, by exposure to the air. Whenever dark shades
of these colors are desired, they should be produced by successive
dippings in weak baths, rather than by one or two dippings in strong
baths. This avoids rubbing, as far as possible, and lessens the
injury to the cloth fibre. In general, it is best to start with a
dye-bath containing some three or four tablespoonfuls of copperas to
one gallon of hot water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account