Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
_Results._—Colors produced by synthetic indigo are clear and clean,
but not brilliant. If the slightly purplish shades of natural indigo
are desired, they can be obtained with special brands—Indigo R, or
Indigo RR, _Metz_—or by mixing small quantities of Algol Red B,
_Elberfeld_, or Thio Indigo Red B, _Kalle_, with the indigo before
reducing it. It is generally supposed that the characteristic shade,
the so-called “bloom” of natural indigo, was due to the presence of
small quantities of a reddish dyestuff, known as indigo red. As a
matter of fact, however, the method of dyeing has more to do with
this than the composition of the dyestuff.
For instance, if the indigo is very thoroughly reduced in the vat
before the goods are immersed, as is generally the case in the modern
hydrosulphite method, and the bath is made up with fresh reducing
agent for each dyeing, the resultant color will be a very clear,
rather greyish, shade of blue without any purple lustre. If, however,
the dyestuff is not very perfectly reduced, as was generally the case
with the old fermentation vats, and the bath, from standing in the
air, has a heavy scum on the top, and is greenish rather than clear
yellow in color below the surface, then the dyed fabrics will be apt
to show the marked purplish tone which is so characteristic of the
older indigo dyeings.
_Uses._—While of less importance than it used to be before the
discoveries of the last few years, the use of indigo for dyeing
cotton, especially for the craftsman, is not to be neglected. It
furnishes, easily and rapidly, in one bath, without either boiling,
mordanting, or after-treatment, exceedingly pleasant, soft shades
which are fast to both light and washing. For resist dyeing, such as
Tied and Dyed work, Resist Stencil work, and Batik, it will be found
particularly useful, because the fabric can be dyed in the cold.
Indigo possesses, however, certain disadvantages, especially for the
professional dyer, which it shares with the other Vat dyes described
below, and which prevent it, and the other Vat dyes, from being used
as widely as the Salt colors or even the Sulphur colors. In the first
place these dyes are all of them expensive. They cost more than most
others, pound for pound of the dry color, and full shades need much
larger proportions of them in the bath.
Then it is difficult to dye to shade with them, because the color,
as a rule, alters so much when exposed to the air. In practice, when
dyeing large quantities of goods to the same shade, it is customary
to divide the materials into several lots of the same weight; and
to make a strong “stock solution” of the dyestuff, properly reduced
with alkali and hydrosulphite. By making up a fresh vat for each
lot of goods, using exactly the same volume of water and of “stock
solution,” and working each lot for the same length of time and at
the same temperature, even results can be produced with much less
trouble than by dyeing to shade by the eye.
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