East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
Whilst the church itself stands taut and trim, a mass of sculptured
masonry in rich browns and reds, the interior shows melancholy
dilapidation. But, indeed, for the stern lessons of history, how sad
were the spectacle of these mutilated effigies in marble, exquisite
sculptures when fresh from the artist’s hand, to-day torsos so hideously
hacked and hewn as hardly to look human! We cannot, however, forget that
the history of races, as of nations and individuals, is retributive.
When the ‘Roi-Soleil,’ that incarnation of the Bourbon spirit, was
so inflated with his own personality as to forbid the erection of
any statue throughout France but his own, he paved the way for the
revolutionary iconoclasts of a century later. It was simply a recurrence
of the old fatality, the inevitable moral, since History began.
For here, defaced to such a point that sculptures they can be called
no longer, are memorialised not only Louis XIV.’s ancestors, but his
offspring, namely, Louise Marie, one of his seven children by Madame
de Montespan, all, as we know, with those of Madame de la Vallière,
legitimised, ennobled and enriched. Pierre de Beaujeu, husband of the
great Anne of France, was also buried here. Anne it was who, on the
death of Louis XI., governed France with all her father’s astuteness,
but without his cruelty, and pleasant and comforting it is to find that
Duke Pierre, her husband, seconded her in every way, himself remaining
in the background, acting to perfection the difficult rôle of Prince
Consort. The sight of these once exquisite marbles may perhaps awaken
in other minds the reflection that crossed my own. Heretical as I shall
seem, I venture to express the opinion, that in such cases one of two
courses are advisable, either the removal of the torsos, or restoration;
why should not some genius be able in this field to do what Viollet
le Duc has so successfully achieved in another? But for that great
architect, the cathedral of Moulins--and how many other beautiful French
churches?--would long ago have tumbled to pieces, been handed over as
storage to corn merchants, or brewers! Is it so much more difficult to
restore a marble effigy, whether of human being or animal, than a façade
or an altar-piece? If impossible, then, I say, let broken marbles like
those of Souvigny be hidden from view.
The agreeable town of Sens on the Yonne is here described for
completeness’ sake. Although not lying in the Bourbonnais, Sens formed
the last stage of our little tour in this direction, a direct line of
railway connecting the town with Moulins. What a change we found here!
Instead of unswept, malodorous streets, and sordid riverside quarters,
all was clean, trim, and cared for, one wholly uncommon feature lending
especial charm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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