East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne — John Shaqi
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and ChampagneBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
East of Paris: Sketches in the Gâtinais, Bourbonnais, and Champagne
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
France -- Description and travel
For the tutelar goddess of Sens, benignant genius presiding over the
city, is a stream, or rather parent of many streams, that water the
streets of their own free will, supplying thirsty beasts with copious
draughts in torrid weather, and keeping up a perpetual air of rusticity
and coolness.
Wherever you go you are followed by the musical ripple of these
runlets, purling brooks so crystalline that you are tempted to look for
forget-me-nots.
The voluntariness of this street watering constitutes its witchery. Post
haste flows each tiny course; not having a moment to spare seems every
current. Need we wonder at the fabled Arethusas and Sabrinas of more
youthful worlds?
Of itself Sens is very engaging. We can easily understand the fact of
the late Mr. Hamerton having made his first French home here. In the
memoir of her husband, affixed to his autobiography, Mrs. Hamerton gives
us particulars, not only of individual, but of super-personal interest.
I use the last expression because the idiosyncrasy described is common
to most men and women of genius or exceptional talent. The charming
essayist then, the art-critic, gifted with so much insight and
feeling settled down at Sens we are told, for the purpose of painting
‘commission pictures.’ His career was to be decided by the brush and not
by the pen. The author of “The Intellectual Life,” with how many other
works of distinction, had, at the outset, wholly mistaken his vocation.
“The first thing considered by Gilbert when he settled at Sens,” writes
Mrs. Hamerton, “was the choice of subjects for his commission pictures,
which he intended to paint directly from nature; and he soon selected
panoramic views from the top of a vine-clad hill, called Saint Bon,
which commands an extensive view of the river Yonne, and of the plains
about it.” Unfortunately, rather we should say fortunately, anyhow,
for the reading world, the ‘commission pictures’ were declined. The
disappointed artist, out of humour with Sens, made a series of journeys
in search of an ideal home, the result being that most entertaining and
successful book, “Round My House,” and the final devotion of its author
to letters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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