Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and historyMacalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
History
Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and history
Macalister, Robert Alexander Stewart
Church vestments
Some ornamentation other than the _clavi_ is found in vestments of late
date in the present period. Leo III, the date of whose Papal rule lies
just on the border-line between the transitional and the mediaeval
epoch, presented to the Church of St Susanna a vestment with four
_gammadia_—that is, ornaments shaped like crosses formed by four gammas
placed back to back, thus: ╬; we also hear of _calliculae_, metal or
embroidered ornaments, for the _alba_. A singular method of
ornamentation is exemplified by numerous frescoes and mosaics, and has
been a fruitful source of perplexity to ecclesiologists. This consists
in the use of letters (sometimes of monograms or letter-like arbitrary
signs) on the outer hem of the garment. No connection can be traced
between these letters and any circumstances known concerning the persons
whose vestments they decorate; and wide differences between the times
and places of individual examples of the same character preclude their
explanation as the faithful copies of weavers' marks. We can only say
that their use is inexplicable on such practical or esoteric grounds,
and that, therefore, some simple explanation, such as the arbitrary
selection of a letter as an elementary ornament, is the only
satisfactory means of accounting for their presence. Even now we daily
employ rows of O-shaped circles, S-shaped curves, etc., as ornaments,
without the slightest reference to the sounds which those symbols
denote. The tendency to exalt simple little contrivances into hidden
mysteries is ever with us, especially in ecclesiology, and it should on
all occasions be repressed.
[15] Throughout this chapter I have retained the Latin words _orarium_,
_planeta_ and _alba_ in preference to the English translations 'stole,'
'chasuble,' and 'alb,' when treating of the vestments of the early
church. The two are not identical, and it is convenient to have a short
method of distinguishing one from the other.
[16] 'Episcopus presbyter aut diaconus si a gradu suo iniuste deiectus
in secunda synodo innocens reperiatur non potest esse quod fuerat nisi
gradus amissos recipiat coram altario de manu episcopi; (si episcopus)
orarium annulum et baculum; si presbyter orarium et planetam; si
diaconus orarium et albam; si subdiaconus patenam et calicem; sic et
reliqui gradus ea in reparationem sui recipiant quae cum ordinarentur
perceperunt.' [The bracketed words have dropped out from the MS., but
their restoration is certain and necessary.]
[17] This MS. is edited in Martene's Thesaurus Anecdotorum, vol. v, p.
86 _et seq._, and extracts are made from it in Marriott's work, p. 204.
The MS. was found in the monastery of St Martin at Autun, and is
assigned by Martene to the sixth century, though on doubtful grounds.
Marriott is probably correct in referring it to the tenth. As the
vestments which it describes rather resemble those of the final period
than of the transitional, we reserve its discussion till the following
chapter.
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