Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
But it is not only pipers who have vanished, many a solid bulk of masonry
has been likewise spirited into the air. Here, for example, is the shape
of a heart let into the causeway. This was the site of the Tolbooth, the
Heart of Midlothian, a place old in story and namefather to a noble book.
The walls are now down in the dust; there is no more _squalor carceris_
for merry debtors, no more cage for the old, acknowledged prison-breaker;
but the sun and the wind play freely over the foundations of the jail.
Nor is this the only memorial that the pavement keeps of former days.
The ancient burying-ground of Edinburgh lay behind St. Giles’s Church,
running downhill to the Cowgate and covering the site of the present
Parliament House. It has disappeared as utterly as the prison or the
Luckenbooths; and for those ignorant of its history, I know only one
token that remains. In the Parliament Close, trodden daily underfoot by
advocates, two letters and a date mark the resting-place of the man who
made Scotland over again in his own image, the indefatigable,
undissuadable John Knox. He sleeps within call of the church that so
often echoed to his preaching.
Hard by the reformer, a bandy-legged and garlanded Charles Second, made
of lead, bestrides a tun-bellied charger. The King has his backed
turned, and, as you look, seems to be trotting clumsily away from such a
dangerous neighbour. Often, for hours together, these two will be alone
in the Close, for it lies out of the way of all but legal traffic. On
one side the south wall of the church, on the other the arcades of the
Parliament House, enclose this irregular bight of causeway and describe
their shadows on it in the sun. At either end, from round St. Giles’s
buttresses, you command a look into the High Street with its motley
passengers; but the stream goes by, east and west, and leaves the
Parliament Close to Charles the Second and the birds. Once in a while, a
patient crowd may be seen loitering there all day, some eating fruit,
some reading a newspaper; and to judge by their quiet demeanour, you
would think they were waiting for a distribution of soup-tickets. The
fact is far otherwise; within in the Justiciary Court a man is upon trial
for his life, and these are some of the curious for whom the gallery was
found too narrow. Towards afternoon, if the prisoner is unpopular, there
will be a round of hisses when he is brought forth. Once in a while,
too, an advocate in wig and gown, hand upon mouth, full of pregnant nods,
sweeps to and fro in the arcade listening to an agent; and at certain
regular hours a whole tide of lawyers hurries across the space.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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