Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
For the country people to see Edinburgh on her hill-tops, is one thing;
it is another for the citizen, from the thick of his affairs, to overlook
the country. It should be a genial and ameliorating influence in life;
it should prompt good thoughts and remind him of Nature’s unconcern: that
he can watch from day to day, as he trots officeward, how the Spring
green brightens in the wood or the field grows black under a moving
ploughshare. I have been tempted, in this connexion, to deplore the
slender faculties of the human race, with its penny-whistle of a voice,
its dull cars, and its narrow range of sight. If you could see as people
are to see in heaven, if you had eyes such as you can fancy for a
superior race, if you could take clear note of the objects of vision, not
only a few yards, but a few miles from where you stand:—think how
agreeably your sight would be entertained, how pleasantly your thoughts
would be diversified, as you walked the Edinburgh streets! For you might
pause, in some business perplexity, in the midst of the city traffic, and
perhaps catch the eye of a shepherd as he sat down to breathe upon a
heathery shoulder of the Pentlands; or perhaps some urchin, clambering in
a country elm, would put aside the leaves and show you his flushed and
rustic visage; or a fisher racing seawards, with the tiller under his
elbow, and the sail sounding in the wind, would fling you a salutation
from between Anst’er and the May.
To be old is not the same thing as to be picturesque; nor because the Old
Town bears a strange physiognomy, does it at all follow that the New Town
shall look commonplace. Indeed, apart from antique houses, it is curious
how much description would apply commonly to either. The same sudden
accidents of ground, a similar dominating site above the plain, and the
same superposition of one rank of society over another, are to be
observed in both. Thus, the broad and comely approach to Princes Street
from the east, lined with hotels and public offices, makes a leap over
the gorge of the Low Calton; if you cast a glance over the parapet, you
look direct into that sunless and disreputable confluent of Leith Street;
and the same tall houses open upon both thoroughfares. This is only the
New Town passing overhead above its own cellars; walking, so to speak,
over its own children, as is the way of cities and the human race. But
at the Dean Bridge, you may behold a spectacle of a more novel order.
The river runs at the bottom of a deep valley, among rocks and between
gardens; the crest of either bank is occupied by some of the most
commodious streets and crescents in the modern city; and a handsome
bridge unites the two summits. Over this, every afternoon, private
carriages go spinning by, and ladies with card-cases pass to and fro
about the duties of society. And yet down below, you may still see, with
its mills and foaming weir, the little rural village of Dean. Modern
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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