Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
improvement has gone overhead on its high-level viaduct; and the extended
city has cleanly overleapt, and left unaltered, what was once the summer
retreat of its comfortable citizens. Every town embraces hamlets in its
growth; Edinburgh herself has embraced a good few; but it is strange to
see one still surviving—and to see it some hundreds of feet below your
path. Is it Torre del Greco that is built above buried Herculaneum?
Herculaneum was dead at least; but the sun still shines upon the roofs of
Dean; the smoke still rises thriftily from its chimneys; the dusty miller
comes to his door, looks at the gurgling water, hearkens to the turning
wheel and the birds about the shed, and perhaps whistles an air of his
own to enrich the symphony—for all the world as if Edinburgh were still
the old Edinburgh on the Castle Hill, and Dean were still the quietest of
hamlets buried a mile or so in the green country.
[Picture: In the Village of Dean]
It is not so long ago since magisterial David Hume lent the authority of
his example to the exodus from the Old Town, and took up his new abode in
a street which is still (so oddly may a jest become perpetuated) known as
Saint David Street. Nor is the town so large but a holiday schoolboy may
harry a bird’s nest within half a mile of his own door. There are places
that still smell of the plough in memory’s nostrils. Here, one had heard
a blackbird on a hawthorn; there, another was taken on summer evenings to
eat strawberries and cream; and you have seen a waving wheatfield on the
site of your present residence. The memories of an Edinburgh boy are but
partly memories of the town. I look back with delight on many an
escalade of garden walls; many a ramble among lilacs full of piping
birds; many an exploration in obscure quarters that were neither town nor
country; and I think that both for my companions and myself, there was a
special interest, a point of romance, and a sentiment as of foreign
travel, when we hit in our excursions on the butt-end of some former
hamlet, and found a few rustic cottages embedded among streets and
squares. The tunnel to the Scotland Street Station, the sight of the
trains shooting out of its dark maw with the two guards upon the brake,
the thought of its length and the many ponderous edifices and open
thoroughfares above, were certainly things of paramount impressiveness to
a young mind. It was a subterranean passage, although of a larger bore
than we were accustomed to in Ainsworth’s novels; and these two words,
‘subterreanean passage,’ were in themselves an irresistible attraction,
and seemed to bring us nearer in spirit to the heroes we loved and the
black rascals we secretly aspired to imitate. To scale the Castle Rock
from West Princes Street Gardens, and lay a triumphal hand against the
rampart itself, was to taste a high order of romantic pleasure. And
there are other sights and exploits which crowd back upon my mind under a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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