Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
very strong illumination of remembered pleasure. But the effect of not
one of them all will compare with the discoverer’s joy, and the sense of
old Time and his slow changes on the face of this earth, with which I
explored such corners as Cannonmills or Water Lane, or the nugget of
cottages at Broughton Market. They were more rural than the open
country, and gave a greater impression of antiquity than the oldest
_land_ upon the High Street. They too, like Fergusson’s butterfly, had a
quaint air of having wandered far from their own place; they looked
abashed and homely, with their gables and their creeping plants, their
outside stairs and running mill-streams; there were corners that smelt
like the end of the country garden where I spent my Aprils; and the
people stood to gossip at their doors, as they might have done in
Colinton or Cramond.
In a great measure we may, and shall, eradicate this haunting flavour of
the country. The last elm is dead in Elm Row; and the villas and the
workmen’s quarters spread apace on all the borders of the city. We can
cut down the trees; we can bury the grass under dead paving-stones; we
can drive brisk streets through all our sleepy quarters; and we may
forget the stories and the playgrounds of our boyhood. But we have some
possessions that not even the infuriate zeal of builders can utterly
abolish and destroy. Nothing can abolish the hills, unless it be a
cataclysm of nature which shall subvert Edinburgh Castle itself and lay
all her florid structures in the dust. And as long as we have the hills
and the Firth, we have a famous heritage to leave our children. Our
windows, at no expense to us, are most artfully stained to represent a
landscape. And when the Spring comes round, and the hawthorns begin to
flower, and the meadows to smell of young grass, even in the thickest of
our streets, the country hilltops find out a young man’s eyes, and set
his heart beating for travel and pure air.
CHAPTER VII. THE VILLA QUARTERS.
Mr. Ruskin’s denunciation of the New Town of Edinburgh includes, as I
have heard it repeated, nearly all the stone and lime we have to show.
Many however find a grand air and something settled and imposing in the
better parts; and upon many, as I have said, the confusion of styles
induces an agreeable stimulation of the mind. But upon the subject of
our recent villa architecture, I am frankly ready to mingle my tears with
Mr. Ruskin’s, and it is a subject which makes one envious of his large
declamatory and controversial eloquence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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