Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
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Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
It is almost the correct literary sentiment to deplore the revolutionary
improvements of Mr. Chambers and his following. It is easy to be a
conservator of the discomforts of others; indeed, it is only our good
qualities we find it irksome to conserve. Assuredly, in driving streets
through the black labyrinth, a few curious old corners have been swept
away, and some associations turned out of house and home. But what
slices of sunlight, what breaths of clean air, have been let in! And
what a picturesque world remains untouched! You go under dark arches,
and down dark stairs and alleys. The way is so narrow that you can lay a
hand on either wall; so steep that, in greasy winter weather, the
pavement is almost as treacherous as ice. Washing dangles above washing
from the windows; the houses bulge outwards upon flimsy brackets; you see
a bit of sculpture in a dark corner; at the top of all, a gable and a few
crowsteps are printed on the sky. Here, you come into a court where the
children are at play and the grown people sit upon their doorsteps, and
perhaps a church spire shows itself above the roofs. Here, in the
narrowest of the entry, you find a great old mansion still erect, with
some insignia of its former state—some scutcheon, some holy or courageous
motto, on the lintel. The local antiquary points out where famous and
well-born people had their lodging; and as you look up, out pops the head
of a slatternly woman from the countess’s window. The Bedouins camp
within Pharaoh’s palace walls, and the old war-ship is given over to the
rats. We are already a far way from the days when powdered heads were
plentiful in these alleys, with jolly, port-wine faces underneath. Even
in the chief thoroughfares Irish washings flutter at the windows, and the
pavements are encumbered with loiterers.
[Picture: Old Bow-Head, Lawnmarket, Edinburgh]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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