Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
These loiterers are a true character of the scene. Some shrewd Scotch
workmen may have paused on their way to a job, debating Church affairs
and politics with their tools upon their arm. But the most part are of a
different order—skulking jail-birds; unkempt, bare-foot children;
big-mouthed, robust women, in a sort of uniform of striped flannel
petticoat and short tartan shawl; among these, a few surpervising
constables and a dismal sprinkling of mutineers and broken men from
higher ranks in society, with some mark of better days upon them, like a
brand. In a place no larger than Edinburgh, and where the traffic is
mostly centred in five or six chief streets, the same face comes often
under the notice of an idle stroller. In fact, from this point of view,
Edinburgh is not so much a small city as the largest of small towns. It
is scarce possible to avoid observing your neighbours; and I never yet
heard of any one who tried. It has been my fortune, in this anonymous
accidental way, to watch more than one of these downward travellers for
some stages on the road to ruin. One man must have been upwards of sixty
before I first observed him, and he made then a decent, personable figure
in broad-cloth of the best. For three years he kept falling—grease
coming and buttons going from the square-skirted coat, the face puffing
and pimpling, the shoulders growing bowed, the hair falling scant and
grey upon his head; and the last that ever I saw of him, he was standing
at the mouth of an entry with several men in moleskin, three parts drunk,
and his old black raiment daubed with mud. I fancy that I still can hear
him laugh. There was something heart-breaking in this gradual declension
at so advanced an age; you would have thought a man of sixty out of the
reach of these calamities; you would have thought that he was niched by
that time into a safe place in life, whence he could pass quietly and
honourably into the grave.
One of the earliest marks of these _dégringolades_ is, that the victim
begins to disappear from the New Town thoroughfares, and takes to the
High Street, like a wounded animal to the woods. And such an one is the
type of the quarter. It also has fallen socially. A scutcheon over the
door somewhat jars in sentiment where there is a washing at every window.
The old man, when I saw him last, wore the coat in which he had played
the gentleman three years before; and that was just what gave him so
pre-eminent an air of wretchedness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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