Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
[Picture: High Street] It is true that the over-population was at least
as dense in the epoch of lords and ladies, and that now-a-days some
customs which made Edinburgh notorious of yore have been fortunately
pretermitted. But an aggregation of comfort is not distasteful like an
aggregation of the reverse. Nobody cares how many lords and ladies, and
divines and lawyers, may have been crowded into these houses in the
past—perhaps the more the merrier. The glasses clink around the china
punch-bowl, some one touches the virginals, there are peacocks’ feathers
on the chimney, and the tapers burn clear and pale in the red firelight.
That is not an ugly picture in itself, nor will it become ugly upon
repetition. All the better if the like were going on in every second
room; the _land_ would only look the more inviting. Times are changed.
In one house, perhaps, two-score families herd together; and, perhaps,
not one of them is wholly out of the reach of want. The great hotel is
given over to discomfort from the foundation to the chimney-tops;
everywhere a pinching, narrow habit, scanty meals, and an air of
sluttishness and dirt. In the first room there is a birth, in another a
death, in a third a sordid drinking-bout, and the detective and the
Bible-reader cross upon the stairs. High words are audible from dwelling
to dwelling, and children have a strange experience from the first; only
a robust soul, you would think, could grow up in such conditions without
hurt. And even if God tempers His dispensations to the young, and all
the ill does not arise that our apprehensions may forecast, the sight of
such a way of living is disquieting to people who are more happily
circumstanced. Social inequality is nowhere more ostentatious than at
Edinburgh. I have mentioned already how, to the stroller along Princes
Street, the High Street callously exhibits its back garrets. It is true,
there is a garden between. And although nothing could be more glaring by
way of contrast, sometimes the opposition is more immediate; sometimes
the thing lies in a nutshell, and there is not so much as a blade of
grass between the rich and poor. To look over the South Bridge and see
the Cowgate below full of crying hawkers, is to view one rank of society
from another in the twinkling of an eye.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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