The same sensation accompanied one on advancing still upwards into the
middle and broadest part of the High Street. Here the street had much
the same striking appearance as now. One saw a spacious incline of
oblong piazza, rather than a street, lined by buildings, some of solid
stone throughout and very tall, others lower and timber-fronted, all of
quaint architecture from their basements to their peaked roofs and
chimneys, and not a few with “fore-stairs,” or projecting flights of
steps from doors on the first floor down to the causeway. It was here,
too, that the lateral fringes of habitation down the steep alleys were
of greatest width. That on the right was stopped only at the bottom of
the ravine on that side by a lake called the North Loch, while that on
the left, after reaching the bottom of the other ravine, mingled itself
there with an independent and very aristocratic suburb that had grown up
in the ravine itself, under the name of the Cowgate, as a southern
parallel of relief to the main Edinburgh of the ridge above. This
low-lying, aristocratic suburb, though accessible from the piazza of the
High Street by the wynds and closes on the southern side, did not come
easily into the cognisance of a stranger that might be exploring the
piazza itself. He had enough to arrest his attention where he was. One
difference between the old High Street and the present, despite their
general resemblance, consisted in a huge obstruction, now removed, which
interrupted the old High Street at its very midmost point, immediately
above the Town Cross. Just above the spot now marked in the causeway as
the site of this Town Cross, and beginning exactly where the great
church of St. Giles protrudes its complex pile on the left and raises
into the sky its remarkable tower and open octagonal crown of stonework,
there stood in the old High Street a stack of lofty masonry, stretching
up the centre of the street for a considerable way, and leaving only a
gloomy and tortuous lane for pedestrians along the buttresses of the
church on one side, and a somewhat wider channel,—called the
Luckenbooths,—for shops and traffic, on the other. The lower portion of
this obstructive stack of masonry belonged to the Luckenbooths, and was
included in the name, the basement being let out in shops or stalls for
goods, while the upper floors were parcelled out as dwellings. The
higher and larger portion, separated from the lower by a narrow suture
called “The Kirk Stile,” was nothing less than the famous Heart of
Midlothian itself, or Old Tolbooth, which had served hitherto as the
_prætorium burgi_, at once the jail of Edinburgh, its Town Council
House, the seat of the Supreme Courts of Justice for Scotland, and the
occasional meeting-place of a Scottish Parliament. Little wonder if one
lingered round this core of the High Street and of the whole town. The
channel of the Luckenbooths on one side of the street, the lane between
the Tolbooth and St.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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