If there be one part of India which we may think of as the shrine of
shrines in a land where religion rules all life, it is to be found in a
triangle of cities just contained within the map before us. There on the
Ganges we see Benares and Patna, and some fifty miles south of Patna the
smaller town of Gaya. Benares from prehistoric times has been the focus
of Hinduism. Patna was the capital of the chief Gangetic kingdom more
than two thousand years ago, when the Greek ambassador Megasthenes,
first of the Westerns, travelled thus far into the East. Gaya was the
spot where Buddha, seeking to reform Hinduism some six hundred years
before Christ, obtained enlightenment, and then migrated to teach at
Benares, or rather at Sarnath, now in ruin, some three or four miles
north of the present Benares. The peoples of all the vast Indian and
Chinese world, from Karachi to Pekin and Tokyo, look to this little
group of cities as the centre of holiness, whether they be followers of
Brahma or of Buddha.
[Sidenote: 3.
Buddhist Tope at Sarnath.] [Sidenote: 4.
Sculptures at Sarnath.] [Sidenote: 5.
Lion-capital at Sarnath.] Old Benares, whose ruins are now known as
Sarnath, was a few miles north of the existing city. We have here one of
the Buddhist topes of Sarnath, which was the spot to which Buddha
removed after he had received enlightenment at Gaya. Here he and his
disciples began to teach. We have another view at Sarnath, showing some
of the ancient sculptures, and a gigantic lion-capital recently
excavated. Its size can be appreciated by noticing the man behind.
[Sidenote: 6.
Plan of Benares.] [Sidenote: 7.
View across the Ganges to the Southern Shore.] [Sidenote: 8.
Panchganga Ghat, Benares.] [Sidenote: 9.
The Same—another view.] [Sidenote: 10.
Palace of the Raja of Bhinga, Benares.] [Sidenote: 11.
The Same—another view.] Benares extends for four miles along the
northern bank of the Ganges. This bank is here higher than the southern,
and descends to the river edge with a steep brink. Down this brink are
many flights of steps, known as “ghats,” which we may translate by the
word “approaches.” We have already heard the word “ghat” applied to the
steep mountain-high brinks of the southern plateau of India, where the
upper ground breaks away to the shore of the Arabian Sea on the one
hand, and to the low-lying plain of the Carnatic on the other. The city
of Benares is situated on the plateau top above the ghats, and for four
miles the river front is crowned with palaces and temples, built of a
yellow sandstone. The opposite, the southern, shore lies low and without
buildings. Here is a view looking southward across the river from the
brink edge; it shows the low and non-sacred southern shore. Here are two
views of the brink itself, faced and crowned with buildings of yellow
sandstone. There follow two views of the palace of the Raja of Bhinga,
and in both we see the ghat steps descending to the water’s edge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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