[Sidenote: 4.
Approaching Tuticorin.] We wake at the dawn of the equatorial day which
comes almost suddenly at six in the morning. There is bustle on board,
for the launch is alongside which is to carry us ashore. The ship is
riding in a yellow, turbid sea, and the land is distant some miles to
the west, a low dark line along the horizon. At one point are white
buildings, which gleam in the increasing light. We cross the broad
shoal, and gradually the detail of the coast separates into a rich
vegetation of trees, and a city whose most prominent object is a cotton
factory with tall chimneys—strange reminder at the very threshold of our
journey that we are entering a land which is in process of economic
change. The United Kingdom underwent such a change a century ago, when
spinning and weaving were removed from the cottage to the steam-driven
factory.
[Sidenote: 5.
Nearer approach to Tuticorin.] India is a land of cotton. The very name
calico is derived from Calicut, a town on the Malabar Coast, which was a
centre of trade when Europeans first came over the ocean. Lancashire now
sends cotton fabrics to India, and the Lancashire power-looms compete
seriously with the finer work of the hand looms of India. But India
manufactures great quantities of her own coarser cottons, and such a
mill as this at Tuticorin is doing more than Lancashire to change the
occupations of the Indian people. The beautiful silks, however, worn by
the better-to-do women of India are still manufactured by hand loom.
[Sidenote: 6.
Landing at Tuticorin.] [Sidenote: 7.
The Bazaar, Tuticorin.] [Sidenote: 8.
Spinning Mill at Tuticorin.] [Sidenote: 9.
Ducks at Tuticorin.] We land. Dark gesticulating figures surround us,
scantily clad in white cotton. The morning sun casts long shadows, but
there is a throng of people, for the work of India is done in the cool
of the morning. The express train to Madras is waiting, but we have a
short time for that first stroll, which leaves so deep an impression on
the traveller setting foot in a new land. Tuticorin is a remote
provincial city, a Dover or a Calais, on the passage from Ceylon. Here
is a picture of its little bazaar with dark people in flowing white
robes; there is a country cart in the street—ox-drawn. Next we have a
nearer view of the spinning mill with a half-naked workman in the
foreground. Under the shade of these leafy trees is a flock of ducks for
sale. At every turn we see something characteristic, and must ask
questions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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