Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines — John Shaqi
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
To counteract this it is essential that great care should be taken to
get a good clearance of the shed. The shed should be timed as early as
possible, so as to give every particle of fibre on the warp a good chance
to separate and clear itself. When space permits, the front reed should
be set slightly over on one side of the reed space, so as to create a
little longer pull on the filling as it draws from the shuttle on the
open side, and correspondingly eases up the draw of the filling on the
other side. The warp stock used, however, may be of such a character that
the loose fibre on it makes even these precautions ineffective altogether
to counteract the trouble, and it may then become advisable to put in
a fine edge wire on the open side of the web to offset the creeping
tendency of the selvage rubber thread when contraction takes place after
the web comes through the press rolls.
The feature which is aimed at, and which is most desirable in the
appearance of such goods, is a clean cut prominent rib at the rubber
line, and the avoidance of a flat paper-like look and feel of the web
generally. The prominence of the rib varies, of course, according to the
size of the rubber thread used, and the binder warp employed in dividing
the same, but even the very best of conditions may be spoiled if proper
care is not taken to get all the prominence of rib possible. Use as fine
a binder warp as is practicable, compensating for any loss of weight or
excess of contraction by using a heavier gut, which again of itself helps
to fill in the rubber cavity and thereby lends additional prominence to
the rib. All the weight possible should be carried on the binder warp
up to a point of safety, and care should be taken to get a very easy,
uniform delivery of the warp from the beam so as to avoid any erratic
jerky movement of the warp lever.
The warp beams which are used on this delicate type of work should
be well balanced and true to center, and the flanges free from any
irregularity which would in any way interfere with the easy and uniform
operation of the warp lever.
The gut, which weaves in with the rubber thread, is used for the two-fold
purpose of giving additional body to the fabric and of regulating in a
measure the length of stretch in the goods. The more gut there is used,
the less becomes the power of contraction of the rubber warp, and the
shorter the stretch produced.
Aside from the fineness and body of the goods, the element of stretch
largely governs the market value of the fabric, so that good judgment and
great care must be exercised in the assembling of the different sizes of
yarns used. Weft, binder and gut all play their part in the governing
of the stretch, as also does the number of picks put in the goods. Any
excess of weight on the binder warp also materially reduces the stretch.
In fact, any one of these features, wrongly adjusted, may result in the
difference between the profit and loss.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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