Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
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Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
In making the selvage of these goods a hard steel wire is used, around
which the filling passes at each pick. This wire, shown at W in Fig.
6A, is highly tempered piano wire, of the very best quality obtainable.
Sharpened to a needle point at one end, with a loop turned at the other
end, it is fastened at the back of the loom by a cord which has an
adjustable slip knot, so as to be able easily and quickly to regulate
the length of wire running in the web. It is then passed through a
harness heddle eye on the rubber or gut shaft, and through a reed space
next outside the selvage rubber thread. The constant wear of this wire
on the reed dent makes it necessary to have this dent of hardened steel
so as to withstand the constant wear of the wire, which is always being
crowded against the dent by the nipping action of the filling as it draws
against the wire in the process of weaving, and the repeated beat at the
same place in the dent at the weaving line. In any event, after a short
time the dents in the reed will be cut so that it becomes necessary to
frequently replace them with new ones, and for this reason it should be
so arranged that they can be easily and quickly removed from and replaced
in the reeds.
THE LISLE WEB
The lisle web, being perfectly plain, is similar in general character to
the loom web, except that it is made with high grade combed and gassed
yarns for the filling in place of cheaper stock used on the loom webs,
and is woven with four threads for the binder warp between each strand
of rubber, instead of two as in the loom web. The harness draft of the
one-half inch lisle web shown at Fig. 7, together with the weave, is
shown at Fig. 7A. The construction is as follows: Binder, 36 ends 80/2;
gut, 8 ends 40/2; rubber, 10 ends 32s; reed, 21 dent; picks, 78 per inch;
stretch, 75 per cent.
It will be seen that all the binder threads operate two up and two down,
but change at each pick in rotation, making the repeat every four picks
of the loom. In a weave of this character the changes of the harness are
distributed uniformly at each pick, thus making it much easier to get
uniform conditions on each selvage. It differs from the loom web in this
respect, where the alternating light and heavy pick has to be contended
with.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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