Occasional calls are made for webs having a frill on one selvage only. In this case it becomes necessary to use an edge wire on the side having no frill, and exceptional care must be taken in this class of goods to produce the proper balance. A soft frill is required and a limited contraction of the body part. DOUBLE CLOTH WEBS Our remarks so far have been confined exclusively to single cloth webs of a simple character, where, apart from the rubber and gut there is only one warp used, and where both back and face of the web are alike. We will now turn our attention to what are known as double cloth webs, where two distinct cloths are woven, one for the face and one for the back, each working independently of the other, but tied together by another warp known as the binder, or else the two cloths interlock each other in such a manner as to bind them together without the assistance of another warp. By this method of weaving much thicker and heavier webs may be produced with a limitation of elasticity which cannot be obtained by the single cloth method. The weaves and materials employed in the face and back of the goods may be identical, or weaves of a different character and stock of different qualities, sizes and colors may be used. Fancy effects may be used to embellish the face, while the back may be perfectly plain and free from any coloring whatever. There are certain features associated with the construction of double cloth webs which make them entirely different to deal with. The different weaves and the different stock employed necessitate splitting up the warps into sections to accommodate such conditions. A separate warp is required for both back and face and also one for the binder, which delivers a much greater length of warp than either, necessitated by the character of the weave used in binding the upper and lower cloths together. A separate warp is also required for the gut, which goes in the web perfectly straight and is shorter in length than any of the other sections. Such goods also require a special warp for the selvage, so that in the simplest form of such webs a bank of five warps is necessary. On fancy goods the introduction of fancy warps may add to this number. BALANCE BETWEEN BACK AND FACE