Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
In single cloth webs as already stated, the scope for ornamental effects
is necessarily limited. The bulk of such webs, particularly those made
with a wire edge, are for the most part plain. There is a type of garter
web, however, characterized as “frill” and shown at Fig. 5, which may
be made within the narrow limitation of cam looms, although the frill
feature is more generally used in connection with more elaborate fancy
effects.
The frill part is practically a section of non-elastic of any desired
width woven on to a section of elastic, which likewise may be of variable
width. The strands of rubber used in the central section, being woven
under tension, contract this portion of the fabric after it leaves the
press rolls. The side sections having no rubber in them do not contract,
but frill up uniformly on either side of the web in regular fluted folds.
No wire is required for the selvage when a frill is made, and the tension
of the filling is adjusted so as to hug the outside threads of the frill
warp and make a neat selvage without narrowing it in beyond the width of
the reed space occupied by the warp.
The frill part must be on a separate warp, apart from the binder threads
which are used in the central section. The elastic section is made in the
regular manner already described for webs of four harness capacity. The
frill is likewise constructed from the same harnesses, but the draft is
so arranged that two of the harnesses are used for one frill and two for
the other. This arrangement is made in order that the filling may only
be bound in alternating picks on the frill part, whereas in the body it
is bound at every pick. This method makes the frill soft and pliable, so
that it readily responds to the contraction which takes place in the body
part, and thus makes for regularity in the formation of the folds.
Should an exceptionally fine frill be desired, the same two harnesses
are used for the frill at either side, and the filling is bound or woven
in at each passage of the shuttle. Wherever this method is employed,
however, it becomes necessary to use a much finer yarn for the frill
warp, or a fewer number of threads spread over the front reed in the
frill. If such precautions are not taken the frill will be harsh and
stiff and will not fold uniformly as the center contracts. It may even
retard the desired contraction of the body.
It is not advisable in making frill webs to use a regular front reed
having the same spacing of dents all across. There is a liability of
getting a coarse looking frill, showing up the marks of the reed dents.
The plan more desirable is to use a reed with the dents required for the
frill part of the fabric spaced very much finer than those used for the
body, generally in the ratio of two to one, so that the frill threads may
be evenly distributed in ribbon-like formation and not show the coarse
lines of the dents.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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