Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
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Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
In drawing-in this web, one face warp should be arranged so that the
threads are drawn on the first, third and fifth harnesses, and the other
face warp should be on the second, fourth and sixth. Such an arrangement
in the distribution of the warps makes it much easier on the mechanism,
and minimizes the risk of breakages. It is also important to make proper
divisions of the warps at the back rolls, inasmuch as some of the warps
have to be weighted heavily while others are only lightly weighted, and
also on account of the different take-up of the varied weaves.
The back rolls should be set in a graded position so as to prevent undue
friction of one warp against another. The binder warp should be worked
under the front roll on account of the extremely light weight this must
carry. Fig. 2 shows the proper position of the back rolls in relation to
the harness shed.
In a web of this character where the warp stock is somewhat crowded in
the front reed, there is always a tendency for a fibrous yarn to prevent
a perfect clearance in the shed, with a liability of producing occasional
floats through the shuttle skipping these threads. Such floats will pearl
up when the web contracts and make an imperfect face. This trouble may
be prevented by setting the back rolls a trifle higher than the breast
beam rod, so that the stock in the harness which is down will be slightly
tighter than that which is in the upper harness.
The chain draft is so arranged that the face harness will operate to
produce a twill which will be reverse to the twist of the yarn employed,
and thus reduce the prominence of the twill weave all possible. The
filling yarn should be soft, of about 15 turns per inch, and of good
uniform quality, in order to produce a nice selvage and not cut the
rubber. The reed dent inside the selvage rubber should be carefully
twisted at an angle to conform to the nipped in position to the rubber
thread, so that the outside edge of the dent will not cut the rubber when
the reed beats against the goods at the weaving line.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Three Leaf Twill, or Satin Face. Woven in
Conjunction With a Plain Back]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Showing Position of Back Rolls in Relation to Shed]
USE OF COARSER YARN
A fine looking twill may be produced with a somewhat coarser face yarn by
using a five threaded face over a six-thread repeat. This is shown in the
harness draft at Fig. 3.
In non-elastic fabrics there are available a variety of twill and satin
weaves for the production of soft lustrous surfaces, but this is not so
in elastic webs, as the contraction of the goods after weaving would
produce a ragged, spongy surface. A float of three picks on the face
is about the limit it is practicable to go on an elastic web, with few
exceptions, and even this only in connection with fine picking.
USE OF FOUR LEAF TWILL
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